Wednesday 31 October 2012

Double take Chardonnay style

Michael Hall Chardonnay 2010

I approached this wine lightly, as it has received not the greatest reviews from some of the big scribes. When I opened the wine it smelt like a great wine from great year with loads of acidity keeping the wine vibrant. On the palate that acidity transferred through but the fruit flavours covered the tartness. There were flavours of grilled mixed nuts, like the ones you get at a carnival, caramel, grapefruit, peach and a little white nectarine. At this stage of the wines development, the oak is already embedded within the wine which makes me think that this is going to be spectacular in about 5 years time.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $42
Rated: 93
Drink: 2016 +

Michael Hall Chardonnay 2010

Jean Claude Boisset Les Clous 2007

Intense, like a bunch of wine nerds standing around a bottle of DRC, is this wine as it slowly unfolds over the course of the night. There is richness but it is the acidity that balances it out perfectly. From a flavour perspective think honeycomb, crushed flower followed by exploded quartz and grapefruit as the wine starts out rich but finishes light and delightful. What a contrast the palate is, which is both intriguing and mesmerising. 

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $75
Rated: 94
Drink: In 4 more years 

Tuesday 30 October 2012

Domaine de Marc Bredif Vouvray 1999

My mate and I were trying to work out what type of a women Chenin Blanc would be. I proposed that if I was trying to pick up, on a night out, Riesling would be the 7pm pick up as it is sophisticated and elegant. Something that you would want to take home to your parents and have a nice Sunday roast with all of them. Sauvignon Blanc would be the 5am pick up as it is very in your face and you know what you are going to be getting. You might even wake up in the morning and think I shouldn't have had that last glass. Chenin blanc on the other hand sits about at the 11pm pick up because it has a swarve seduction about it and it can surprise the hell out of you, given a few years in the bottle.

Domaine de Marc Bredif Vouvray 1999

NOT READY FOR CONSUMPTION! This needs a few more years but I had fun watching this evolve in the glass. Do I want searing acidity? Yes as it will allow is elegant beauty to slowly work its way down the maturity track. At the moment it is musk stick and wet pebbles doing the lambada with honeysuckle and lime cordial. The texture of the wine is starting to ramp up but the acidity is still wedged in the wine which makes the wine finish dry.   I like it but I would like it more later on.

Alcohol: 12.5%
Price: $50
Rated: 94
Drink: Give it 5 more years
Importer: Negociants Australia

Kalleske Florentine Chenin Blanc 2011

The trend at the moment in Australia is to oak non-traditionally oaked white varieties such as Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Gris. Some of these wines are beautiful as older oak can enhance texture without influencing the flavour profile.  What needs to be taken into account is the style of wine that the producer is trying to achieve and the suitability of the fruit.

Kalleske Florentine Chenin Blanc 2011

Pungent aromas of flowers, melon and honeyed limes with a bit of toast coming from the oak take centre stage. The palate is pretty much the same thing but the oak plays a major role in the flavour outcome. There is a nice richness and texture on the mid-palate of this casual quaffer that would work well over the summer months.

Alcohol: 12%
Price: $18
Rated: 82
Drink: Now or over the next few years

Two Barossa Shiraz from 2011

I've been speaking to a few winemakers and marketing people from the Barossa and it is interesting to see the difference in opinion. The winemakers are saying its not the best vintage as the disease pressure was too much.  On the other hand the marketing people are saying that the disease pressure was too much for the region but we, insert every marketing person, came out particularly well as we were very rigorous with the selection of grapes in the winery. Only time will tell to see who is correct!

Teusner Riebke Shiraz 2011

The wine looks very dark for a 2011 but on the nose the first thing that I notice is the swarve oak. On the palate that poshness comes through as well but it is joined by twine and cranberries. The wine is more fullness than I was expecting yet the flavour spectrum is not what I normally get out of the Riebke. Instead of Christmas pudding there is a cherries and brown sugar component mixed with green herbs and green peppers corns. These initial flavour work ok but the mid-palate is rather flat and the flavours don't transgress up the end of my tongue. The wine does finish with a brightness that does leaves me feeling refreshed.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $19
Rated: 80
Drink: Now


Laughing Jack Jack's Shiraz 2011

The Jack's Shiraz is the same price as the Riebke so it was interesting to taste these next to each other for the 4 days. Upon opening the the Jack's jumps out with vibrant flavours of cherry ripe and spice. There is a sweetness from the oak but it takes second fiddle to the savouriness of the fruits. Did I just say that a young Barossa Shiraz is savoury? I think I did! It is amazing what can be done, if the conditions are right, in the hands of a top class small producer. Ok so you get savoury fruits characters with a little licorice weed in a medium bodied style that possess tannins upon tannins which is a good 2011 wine with style.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $19
Rated: 84+
Drink: It will keep well due to the high acidity but it does drink so well now.

laughing-jack-shiraz

Thursday 25 October 2012

Flynn's Sangiovese 2010 + Spaghetti Bolognese


Flynn's Sangiovese 2010 + Spaghetti Bolognese

Sangiovese needs a bit of heat to produce a wine of depth in a medium bodied style which fits perfectly to the geographical and climatic area of Heathcote. The vines for this sangiovese are grown on the footsteps of Mount Camel ranges which makes them a holy site for the region.

Spaghetti Bolognese

Tomato Sauce
2 x tin tomatoes
Splash Olive oil
Fresh herbs from the garden
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed

Combine all ingredients and simmer until reduced to about 2/3 volume

400 g top quality beef mince
2 beef hearts or 2 beef lungs, finely chopped
1 carrot, sliced
100 g mushrooms, sliced (optional)
4 rashers smokey bacon, sliced
One large handful of spaghetti
Olive oil
Pinch of salt
Fresh parmesan, grated

Heat large pan over medium heat and add olive oil and carrots. Cook until slightly golden and then set a side. Do the same for the mushrooms and then cook the mince, hearts and bacon until almost cooked through and then add all ingredients and tomato sauce and allow simmering for 10 minutes. Whist this occurs, boil a potful of water and then add a pinch of salt and pasta. Cook until just cooked and drain off water. Combine pasta and Bolognese sauce and serve immediately with some fresh parmesan.

Flynn's Sangiovese 2010

This is a little different than I was expecting as there is an old world aged sweet vinegar element embedded within this wine. It reminds me of the 07 chianti vintage in its flavour spectrum. There are flavours jumping out of this wine but the build never get over medium bodied and everything finishes with mouth puckering tannins. I would almost say they are kinky but I won’t go that far. This is the sort of sangiovese that I love to drink as it possesses interest, savouriness and drink-ability all in one.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $35
Rated: 89
Drink: Now - 2020

Monday 22 October 2012

Interesting wines for spring


First Drop The Big Blind 2010

This wine comes from the Adelaide Hills so it is streets away from the Shiraz based wines that 1st Drop produces yet it is the first wine I wanted to sample when these came across my desk. The colour of the wine is very light but the savoury flavours come rolling down the glass into my mouth with drive and attention. To start with there is plum and spice covered in dirty Christmas cherries and pipe tobacco.  These Medium bodied flavours continue along the palate but they are melded nicely to a smooth yet mouth-filling amount of fun loving tannins.  The structure, flavour and acidity of the wine, all fits together nicely and makes for a high quality experience as soon as the cap is cracked.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $30
Rated: 88
Drink: Now – 2017


Wild Duck Creek Estate Sparkling Duck #6 NV

Around Christmas time, I get a hankering for quality Sparkling reds. In fact my Dad and I polished off a dozen Joseph Sparkling last year between December 1st and the 24th.  The Joseph is in my view the best quality sparkling red in Australia but the Wild Duck Creek is only a smidge behind in terms of quality but bucket loads behind in terms of price. This wine has spent three years on lees before being released and is a blend of Shiraz heading right back to 1993. The flavours of this creamy and luscious wine is pure Heathcote with things like mint and plum hanging around in abundance nonetheless they take second fiddle to the Dutch chocolate, spice and leather. The flavours fill the mouth and inch their way along coating serious goodness as they go. It’s the sort of wine that would normally be sweet but this version is bone dry which takes up the quality level up a notch.

Alcohol: 15%
Price: $45
Rated: 93
Drink: Now – 2020

Woodlands  Chloe Chardonnay 2011

Woodlands have been growing some of the best Chardonnay in Margaret River for decades but they have been selling those grapes to other wineries and it is only now they have been putting the wine out under their own.  In 2011 Western Australia experienced a nice and easy cool vintage which produced wines with beautiful acidity backbones. This wine is that to a tee but here there is an amazing rich flavour spectrum of roasted nuts, peach, yellow nectarine and spice all coiled up which will be ready to go once they are given a little time in the bottle.  The palate is like being fed at night with a blind fold on as it is exhilarating and engaging at the same time. You know what I’m talking about…..don’t you? Try it and find out.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $70
Rated: 93+
Drink: Give it 5 years before opening them


Patritti Marion Vineyard 2009

South Australia has a stranglehold on top quality Grenache Shiraz blends but they are normally very expensive if they come from 100 year old vines. This wine comes from an ancient vineyard in Marion which is 15 minutes drive south of the heart of Adelaide. It is a vineyard that I have driven past so many times and have always wondered where the grapes went. Now I know and I will be buying this wine so I can serve it to friends and family.  Why you ask? Well this vineyard has a huge story.  You will have to head to Patritti’s website as I would take too long to run through. Now back to the wine. The aromas of the wine are ultra-spicy and savoury with hints of red lipstick and old school humbugs thrown in.  On the palate black fruits take center stage with an abundance of pulsating tannins kicking in. This wine is not a big baller but it does have plenty of flavour and structure to hold its own in a blind line up yet it shines the most when it sits by itself with some food which is what I think good wine is all about.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $18 A stupidly low price for the quality
Rated: 88
Drink: Now - 2017


Tuesday 16 October 2012

John Duval Eligo 2009

The wine is made from a barrel selection from each vintage. If John can generate this type of quality from 2009 then watch out for his 2010 Eligo.

John Duval Eligo 2009

Flavours: crushed pebbles, ironstone, smoked chocolate, dried earth and fresh blackberries

Balance: beautiful balance of flavour, tannin and waves of acidity to help things stay together.  The vitality of the structure keeps the palate feeling fresh and energetic.

Length: extremely long

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $105
Rated: 93+
Drink: 2017 - 2027



Sunday 14 October 2012

The Willows Vineyard Bonesetter Shiraz 2008

The Willows Vineyard Bonesetter Shiraz 2008

This wine takes after its name as it is huge. It really could have been called the hulk it is that big and dark. The fruit is open and ready for action with the sweet oak shining bright. The flavours are a mix between blackberry jam, chocolate, tar and the pristine seductive french oak component  In the mouth the wine is a little thick but it definitely makes up for it with the amount of flavour that has been banged into one bottle. I would recommend that this be drunk during the colder months when the richness of this wine could be really appreciated.

Alcohol: 14.8%
Price: $50
Rated: 88
Drink: After 2014

Bonesetter Shiraz

Friday 12 October 2012

First Drop Fat of the Land Seppeltsfield Vineyard 2009

I love the idea about bottling all the sub-regions within the Barossa separately and releasing them as a collective so people can taste the differences. It allows people to understand what each sub-region brings to the table and select which flavours or structure style they are drawn to. Matt Gant has done just this with the Fat of the Land label, in a high quality and seductive sort of manner.

First Drop Fat of the Land Seppeltsfield Vineyard 2009

Dark, broody and a little bit moody is this seductive monster of a wine. I was thinking something like combining Angelina Jolie and the Resident Evil movie together for people to get a feeling of this wine. The flavours of this wine are in the black end of the spectrum with blackberry conserve, 75% coco chocolate, glazed plum cake, exotic pan roasted spices with a bit of alcohol heat coming through.  The oak is very beautiful, even if it is a little high at the moment but it should sort itself out with a couple of years in the bottle. The wine has a beautiful length of flavour with the size of the wine masking the structure that hides underneath.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $75
Rated: 89
Drink: 2019 - 2029

Wednesday 10 October 2012

De Bortoli BellaRiva Pinot Grigio Vermentino 2011

In my mind blends are the future of top quality quaffer wines as they seem to combine all the positives of each variety and reducing the holes.

De Bortoli BellaRiva Pinot Grigio Vermentino 2011


A nice balance of richness and lightness with a verve of acidity keeping everything tight and trim. This is the sort of wine that is a no brainer as it would be easy to smash the cap off and chug it down as the weather warms up. Considering the long term forecast is for the heat to come rolling back I would try to find wines like this to open at the start of November. There is enough interest to hold a wine nerd yet still enough easy going flow of flavours that anyone could drink this.

Alcohol: 12%
Price:
Rated: 83
Drink: Now - 2014

Laughing Jack Greenock Creek Shiraz 2010

Another top wine from Shawn Kalleske.

Laughing Jack Greenock Creek Shiraz 2010

Flavour me up but do it in a restrained style and with tannin to burn. On the palate the wine tastes like smoked blackberries, pomegranate, blueberries, spice and red licorice which seduces me to know end. What Shawn manages to do is combine Barossa goodness with French intellect and I have no idea how he does it. The length of the wine is great but I would wait for a while to open this as it coiled up tight.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $38
Rated: 90+
Drink: 2020 - 2030


Greenock Creek Release 2012


Greenock Creek Release 2012

The times they are a changing…a few years ago Greenock Creek would have only been open for 2 weekends but last year the cellar door was open until mid-January. This has meant that more people can experience the wines that Michael and his team produce each year, especially the 2010s that were released at the start of September.  The vineyard is looking healthy as the vines have been able to get a good recovery over the last 3 years.  






Greenock Creek Cornerstone Grenache 2011

This years Cornerstone feels ready to go with its perfumed nose of redcurrants and sandalwood interplayed with Indian spice and raspberries jubes. On the palate there are those lovely flavours with no alcohol heat at all, I normally get a bit of alcohol heat from the cornerstone, and it all finishes with a beautiful wedge of acidity. The start and the finish of this wine are beautiful but the mid-palate is a little wacky for my liking, not in the way of disjointedness but in terms of flavour. It came across as hession bags or twine and these flavours distracted me from the overall nature of the wine.

Alcohol: 15%
Price: $29
Rated: 85
Drink: Sooner rather than later

Greenock Creek Cabernet 2010

This is a change from the last wine as there is a pungent nature about the flavour yet it stays very savoury.  From the get go there are flavours of blackcurrant, smashed pepper, cedar, blueberries and dried deadly nightshade. I think that last descriptor is one of the components that I always taste in Greenock Creek's Cabernet and one that I find quiet attractive. The wine is very light and elegant but given that it come from 2010, it is not unexpected and again there is a nice acidic wedge finishing the wine off.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $38
Rated: 90
Drink: Now – 2020

Greenock Creek Alices Shiraz 2010

All the Shiraz based wines from Greenock Creek are better in quality than the previous years release.  The Alices Shiraz comes from the younger vines and normally it is the big boy of the group.  This year’s version has a little more restraint yet it still retains those flavours I would normally expect. As a young wine this is rather complete but it has been open for three days so it isn’t something to freak out about. On the palate the wine isn’t as sweet as per normal but the oak still plays a role in adding a candy flavour.  The fruit flavours of dark chocolate, mocha and licorice make this a full bodied experience and one that works so well now.

Alcohol: 15%
Price: $30
Rated: 90
Drink: 2014  - 2019

Greenock Creek Apricot Block Shiraz 2010

This is the first time I have noticed the structure in a Greenock Creek wine before the flavours which suggest that this will keep and improve in the cellar. This wine is full bodied with great length of flavour but the tannic grip holds all the flavours in place for what seems like an age. Those flavours are nice as they remind me of running through a field carrying tart plums, licorice sticks, Christmas cake and dried red currants on a warm summer’s day when I was a kid.  In the end the wine finishes with saliva dripping down my mouth which leaves me alive and vibrant.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $38
Rated: 92
Drink: 2018 – 2030

Greenock Creek Seven Acres 2010

The feel of this wine is beautiful as it slinks down my tongue, coating flavours of fragrant pan roasted Indian spices mixed with dried licorice and chocolate sauce. These flavours evolve so slowly, it feels like the flavour spectrum wouldn’t change but they do as they turn into ironstone and fresh blackberries. Once again the tannins kick in, like they do in the Apricot Block, but this time they are even more pronounced. In fact the tannins pulsate on my tongue like they have their own heartbeat. This wine reminds me of the old Greenock Creek wine from the early to mid-1990s and that brings a smile to my face.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $48
Rated: 94
Drink: 2016 - 2035


Brokenwood Wade Block 2 Vineyard 2007

Brokenwood Wade Block 2 Vineyard 2007

Balanced and rich but with a fluffy yet vibrant feel and those lovely McLaren Vale flavours. On the palate there is a little extra in the form of laser like acidity mixed with just ripe flavours which remind me of the wines of old. I enjoyed this wine so much it didn't make it past the third night!

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $48
Rated: 92
Drink: I'm ready now but I will keep.