Thursday 29 November 2012

Some interesting wines for summer


Mitolo Jester Sangiovese Rose 2012

The weather has turned and the sunshine is out so it is rose time. This little number has savoury notes with some sweetness in the mid-palate which represents the style of roses that I think are better suited to the Australian lifestyle. The wine stays well clear of those confected sweet fruit bomb but rather is more akin to freshly picked cherries, strawberries with spice which is so nice. The acidity of the wine is bright with some added levels of chalkiness that finish the back-palate off in style. From the get go the wine is complete in balance and in depth of flavour.

Alcohol: 12.5%
Price: $22
Rated: 86
Drink: Now or over the next three years



Coriole Nero d’Avola 2012

This grape variety originates from the island of Sicily in Italy but it has found a home in McLaren Vale. This should come as no surprise as the variety loves the hot weather as long as it gets a bit of cold sea winds to cool itself off at night. The wines from Sicily are generally medium bodied and savoury as hell and this wine is no different. Initially the wine shows plums rolled in wild herbs and freshly grated pepper and none of these flavours are at all sweet. In fact they are extremely savoury for a wine from such a region. After a while a little blueberry licorice comes through but never does the wine become big or broad, while the tannins hug the mouth from start to finish.  I will go out on a limb and say that Nero d’Avola is the next big development for McLaren Vale and South Australia. The only thing that held me back from giving this wine a monumental score was a little unresolved CO2 that was evident in the wine which distracted me just a little, saying that this wine is ridiculous value as I had it down as a 50 buck wine before I was informed that it is only 25 bucks at cellar door.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $25 (be quick as there is only 240 bottle produced)
Rated: 90
Drink: I have no idea but I could drink it now but I will be keeping some to see what it does in the cellar.




Maximus Old Vine Grenache 2010

McLaren Vale and Grenache is a match made in Heaven. What the relationship does is to allow the wine to show off the vineyard in a more savoury style with little overripe fruits than you would see in a shiraz. What they do here is use older American oak to allow the strong fruit to take centre stage. The wine comes a across as dirty with specks of raspberries and blood sausage before the light yet invasive tannins take hold. This is what the region does best and that is cram flavour and food friendliness into a bottle at a very reasonable price.

Alcohol: 14.8%
Price: $25
Rated: 87
Drink: Now – 2018


Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2009

I love this wine for a few reasons but the first one is that it is readily available and is made in a more savoury yet medium to full bodied style.  Upon opening the wine shows violets and tart redfruits before the richness of chocolate, blackcurrants and freshly ground coffee sets in. This is the sort of wine you could buy a case of and happily serve it during the week or at a big event on the week end as it has value written all over it. Back up the truck? Yes it is a must.

Alcohol: 14.8
Price: $12.50
Rated: 86
Drink: Now or over the next 5 years


Sunday 25 November 2012

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2012

For such a cheap wine the entry of the flavours is rather snazzy. The initial bang is of kiwifruits, passionfruit sorbet, snowpeas and gooseberries before a set of sugar crystals hits the mid-palate. Once on the mid-palate the flavours peel themselves off before they disappear. Its a nice wine and goes to show that you can pick up easy drinking wines with a bit of complexity at around 10 bucks.  This would be beautiful to have a dozen during the month of December as people are always going to drop around for a quick merry Christmas tipple.

Alcohol: 13%
Price: $10
Rated: 84
Drink: This year

Spinifex Indigene 2010

Spinifex Indigene 2010

What can be done with sustainable old vine vineyards and a pearler of a year? Well if this wine is anything to go by pure brilliance is the result.  The mataro takes center stage on the flavour wave but there is a few notes of dark shiraziness plus some grenachey notes as well. The wine is beautifully balanced even at this early stage of its development. You could drink it now but it will look so much better with 8 years under its belt. The structure of the wine stands out this year more than most as the tannins are forceful like you would expect from a mataro but they are a little more polished than usual. Try thinking about Angelia Jolie punching you in the face and then giving you a kiss and you get the feeling of the tannic force of the wine. I looked at this wine over 7 days and while it was great fun from the first sip, the wine looked the best after day 5.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $60
Rated: 94+
Drink After 2018

Paringa Estate Cellar Door

Paringa Estate stands as one of the beacons in the Morington Peninsula as it was one of the first to produce top quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the area. The Estate was established in 1984 with their first vines being planted the following year.



Paringa Estate Chardonnay 2009

Rich and Ripe with plenty of flavour to throw around. This wine would be a high roller at the Casino that showers everyone with free drinks all night. They would be friendly and loving with plenty of funny stories to share with all their new friends. You will definitely have a good time with that sort of a person, even if you do wake up with a bit of a hangover in the morning.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $35
Rated: 86
Drink: Now - 2015




Paringa Estate Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2009

This wine is the real deal! Big? Yes but it possesses something extra. The wine is make from 9 rows of vines just outside the cellar door. The winemaking is pretty much the same as above wine but this sees a little extra newer oak. Once the liquid hits my mouth, the first thing I notice is the creamy feel. What a beautiful experience it is and the flavours of grapefruit, spice, rockmelon and peaches only add to the overall delight. You do have to splash the cash for this wine but it pays off in spades.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $50
Rated: 92
Drink: In 3 years




Paringa Estate Pinot Noir 2009

Made from a blend of all their top vineyards in the Mornington area is this beast of a Pinot Noir. It has all the traditional Pinot smells in a darker frame of mind yet it doesn't give any heat from the higher alcohol, rather it is light in weight but dark in flavour. I liked this a lot as it reminded me about what this area does so well.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $60
Rated: 91+
Drink: Give it 2 years and she will be ready

Paringa Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009

Watch out for this baby as she is funky and seductive at the same time. There are those New World fruity flavour mixed in with some earthy and forest floor elements which makes this a perfect union between the two ends of the world. This will satisfy any of the Pinot Noir lovers as there is a little something for everyone. The tannins are more vibrant that the above wine and the flavours are more coiled up within themselves so I would give this a few extra years in the cellar. On the mid-palate the alcohol did show through but I would hope that with the right food match it would not distract from the experience. 

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $90
Rated: 93
Drink: Up to 10 years

Friday 23 November 2012

Chrismont La Zona Sangiovese 2010 + Slow cooked Lamb Shanks

The history of Sangiovese is Australia doesn't take long to read as the variety has only been in the country for  approx 30 years. Currently there is 14 different varieties of Sangiovese with the Brunello clone being the best regarded. If left alone Sangiovese is a weed so selecting the right soil type and the right viticultural practices is paramount when producing quality wines. The King Valley seems to be producing the best value and highest quality across the board. Only time will tell if there are any other spots that can rival its dominance.

I decided to pair this wine with slow cooked lamb shanks as I could throw it on in the morning before I headed off to work. You will need a slow cooker machine but they are easy to find.

 Slow Cooked Lamb Shanks

4 large lamb shanks
2 tins of diced tomatoes (2 x 400 g)
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 carrots, sliced
1 zucchini, sliced
1 handful of button mushroom
half a glass of wine
a handful of fresh herbs, chopped

Throw all ingredients in slow cooker and turn on to high. It will be ready when you get home.



Chrismont La Zona Sangiovese 2010 

The La Zona label is the Italian arm of the Chrismont winery, well actually it is the Mediterranean arm with a focus on all things Italian. This wine does taste like an Aussie wine but there are nice whiffs of earth and tartness that remind me of the varieties roots. The flavours of sour cranberries and Christmas cherries are medium bodied, while the light tannins kick in and march hand in hand with the flavours. The length of the wine is very good and it seems so easy to drink at this stage of its development. Could I drink this for lunch on a warm summers day? Hell yes and a little more.

Alcohol: 13%
Price: $24
Rated: 87
Drink: Now or over the next 5 years






Thursday 22 November 2012

Stefano Lubiana Primavera Chardonnay 2011


Stefano Lubiana Primavera Chardonnay 2011

Chardonnay is the most exciting grape variety at the moment in Australia! Every time I taste a group of wines I say yes the quality is great and the region is one of the best at producing high quality Chardonnay so it comes as no surprise that Stefano Lubiana has produced a beauty of an entry level wine that is a little rounder and more forgiving than its big brother at this early stage. There are notes of salted nuts and nectarines with some more robust flavours of tinned summer fruits coming through. There is minimal oak intervention so the true fruit flavours can shine through as of today. This is the sort of wine that I would buy to open at any stage while I wait for the chiseled Chardonnays to evolve in the bottle.   

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $27
Rated: 88
Drink: Now or over the next few years

Main Ridge Estate Cellar Door

Main Ridge Estate is situated down a little bumpy dirt road in what feel like the middle of no where. When you arrive the first thing that pops out is the thickness of the vines and how manicured they are. Just have a look at them below.



While the Estate doesn't produce many wines they focus on the varieties that fit with their geological and climatic location. Nat White is a man who has thought about what type of wine that the Estate will produce and he sets about getting the job done. While he keeps things simple in the vineyard by reducing the amount of chemicals and only relying on natural ferments, Nat doesn't consider himself to be a natural winemaker. What the wines do show is clean and crisp flavours of character.


Main Ridge Estate Chardonnay 2010

Cellar time anyone? This needs it and some more as it is coiled up so tight. Did someone say tight like a tiger? This is a serious beast of burgundy inspired vineousness with flavours of lemon blossom, melon and peaches before an explosion of minerals hits every flavour receiver in my mouth. What is so beautiful about this wine is the acidity that is the backbone of the wine. It holds everything together and keeps the palate dripping with saliva. Just brilliant.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $55
Rated: 94++
Drink: 2020 - 2027

Main Ridge Estate The Acre Pinot Noir 2010

This is pretty straight forward as the name gives it away. This comes from an acre block on the estate which is treated with love and care. The wine possesses mouth puckering levels of acidity and chalky tannins. While this means that the wine isn't showing that well at the moment, it does allow for the future to to bright. The length of the wine is brilliant while the flavours are in the normal level of red fruits and with some musky spice.  Leave this alone and it will resume the thrown.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $60
Rated: 92+
Drink: In 5 years go for it

Wednesday 21 November 2012

Thomas Wines Sweetwater Shiraz 2010

Thomas Wines Sweetwater Shiraz 2010

I've been tasting a lot of Shiraz over the past months and it is beautiful to taste such a lovely and accessible Hunter version. This wine is no more than medium bodied that seems to coat the interior of my mouth in Hunter goodness. There is an element of sweetness as caramel swirls take control but soon the flavour of Christmas cherries march back with force.  In a time where everyone seems to be looking back at the older style wines with glee in their eyes this wine seems to combine the best of both worlds. Maybe what people want to something that reminds them of a time with their family when they were younger?  I might be getting a little nostalgic but it is that time of year when you get together with your family and enjoy the moment with a large glass of wine. Time to drink up I say.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $35
Rated: 91
Drink: Now - 2022

Individual Vineyard Sweetwater Shiraz


John Duval Entity 2010

John Duval Entity 2010

Ultra restrained and a little bit backwards at this stage of its development. All the components slowly meander out of the glass but they do so at a snail pace which makes this difficult to drink with full joy in mind.  What will happen in 10 plus years is everything will fill out and settle down into a gorgeous Barossa wine of true character. There are no overripe elements, nor is there alcohol heat which is a great change but what you get here is what Barossa Shiraz is supposed to taste like.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $45
Rated: 92+
Drink: 2020+

Hunters Pinot Noir 2010

Marlborough is more renowned for its Sauvignon Blanc rather than its Pinot Noir which means that many good quality wines from this area become a little devalued. This means good buying for everyone. This winery is family own and run but the winemaking is done by an Australian fellow. Gary Duke has worked at Hanging Rock before he ventured over the Tasman Sea which means he has had his fare share of cool climate vintages. While this is the first time I have tried a Hunters wine I was rather impressed with it.

 Hunters Pinot Noir 2010

Medium bodied with a little funk of the nose. The funk is only minor and seems to add interest and intrigue while the flavours of cherry and spice leads the way. The flavours meld well with the light tannin and there is only a minor hiccup on the back palate. For the money this is cool climate drinking at a good price.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $25
Rated: 86
Drink: Now - 2015
Importer: Red & White


Tuesday 20 November 2012

Nanny Goat Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010

The Nanny Goat label is available through most larger or quality independent wine stores. The Pinot Noir variety is difficult to grow as the skins are very thin which makes them susceptible to sunburn. In the right hands this style of wine can be mesmerising. The Central Otago versions are generally a bit bigger and can come at a significant cost. This wine is neither of those at it is medium bodied and under 30 bucks.

Nanny Goat Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010

This has everything that a Pinot lover would want as it is no more than medium bodied with flavours of fresh cut herbs and cherry pips covered in summer flowers. The wine comes across as a romantic in that it would sing you a love sonnet all day long. These beautiful notes enchant the senses in a warm and loving manner which is perfect for this time of year.

Alcohol: 13.4%
Price: $29
Rated: 89
Drink: Now - 2018
Importer: Red & White

Kaesler Old Bastard 2008


I tasted this blind but was given it to take home and evaluate it over four days. While my rating stayed the same the alcohol was most evident on day four.

Kaesler Old Bastard 2008

Ultra ripe and moved into the port end of the spectrum is this big wine. The rich fruits are very dark with a little boiled fruit action coming through over the top of the leather and dark chocolate flavours. The tannins sit firmly underneath but they do add a bit of food friendliness to this beast.  Once the flavours hit my tongue the alcohol is the first thing that I notice and it stays that way for the whole of the tasting event. I would be drinking this now with a half cow attached.

Alcohol: 16.5%
Price: $150
Rated: 83
Drink: Now

Politini Sangiovese 2008 + Smashed Potato & Chicken Bake

Politini is one of the new breeds of wineries that wants to promote the region as a wine and food mecca so they have workshops that people can attend. Ever wanted to make salami? Well Politini has many workshops that run you through what to do. I have done such a workshop and it it amazing how easy it is. My mate and I can't keep our hands off the things so we make more sausages than salami's but really it is the same process with some different ingredients and a bit extra time. Sausages you can eat straight away and you have to be patient with salami's.

With this wine I didn't know how big it was going to be so I decided to pair it with a medium bodied earthy style of dish.

Smashed Potato & Chicken Bake

1/2 kilo chicken thighs
400 grams kifler potatoes
1 punnet cherry tomatoes
olive oil
4 garlic cloves, whole
salt and pepper
garden herbs (I have rosemary and oregano in mine), chopped
4 stripes of bacon, sliced (optional extra) cook before adding to the large dish

Bring a pot of water to the boil and add in potatoes. Heat pan and cook chicken thighs until they have a blackened edge. Once done remove and allow to cool then pull apart. When potatoes are almost cooked remove from water and set aside. Once they start to cool push down in them until they start to split.

Heat oven to 180 degrees celcius. Place all ingredients in large dish and mix, making sure that all ingredients are covered with oil. Place in oven and cook for 20 - 30 minutes. Serve with a nice glass of Politini Sangiovese.


Politini Sangiovese 2008

Boy this is really light weight but the flavours of wild herbs and cherries keep my attention. This is the sort of wine that I would drink over lunch or during the week after a hard day at work, as it satisfies without challenging too much. The tannins and flavours are melded together which means that this is ready to go in a primary sort of way. This is the sort of wine that points towards Australia becoming a grown up wine society.

Alcohol: 14.4%
Price: $22
Rated: 86
Drink: Now to 2017


Vinea Marson Sangiovese 2010 + Lemon Pasta

Mario Marson is the owner and winemaker at Vinea Marson and he decided to lay down his roots in the heart of Heathcote in Victoria. Mario has done vintages in Italy at Isole e Olena where he learn that planting a variety of different clones of the same variety  allows for the production of quality wines year after year. On arrival back in Australia Mario became the winemaker at Mount Mary before finding his home in Heathcote. This winery is one to get on board with before everyone gets a hold of them.

My wife cooked this dish more us to go with the wine and it worked a treat. She has published the recipe on her site so I've linked to it below

Lemon Pasta

1 bag pasta of any type
rind from 1 lemon
juice from 2 lemons
splash of olive oil
fresh basil
pinch of salt
parmesan for serving

Heat water in pot. Once water is boiling add pasta and salt. While the pasta is cooking beat the rind, juice and olive oil together. Once the pasta is cooked drain and place back in pot. Mix in sauce, basil and parmesan. Serve immediately.


Vinea Marson Sangiovese 2010

This wine is difficult not to like as it is only medium bodies with red fruits galore. The level of restraint is beguiling as the wine never seems to get a head of itself yet the flavours of cherries, raspberries, provincial herbs and candied mints carry the wine along nicely. He fruit takes centre stage as the oak is already fully integrated. On the back palate the savoury and forceful tannin finish everything off with a slap of acidity thrown in there as well.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $38
Rated: 91
Drink: Now - 2020

Monday 19 November 2012

Coriole Nebbiolo 2009

This wine comes from a single vineyard in the Adelaide Hills which is farmed biodynamically. I get the feeling that the Adelaide Hills will become known for this grape variety.

Coriole Nebbiolo 2009

At the moment this wine is more about length and tannin than it is about outright enjoyment which is a good thing as it moves this wine into the serious end of the spectrum. The savoury drying tannins pull the length of the wine extremely long while the oak is already in the background. The tannins wrestle with the flavours of dried roses, Asian spices and plums and finally they win out. Give this wine a good ten years in the cellar and the result should be the other way round. The wine definitely fits into the more European style of wine which suits Nebbiolo perfectly.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $35
Rated: 90
Drink: 2022 - 2032+

Sunday 18 November 2012

T'Gallant Cellar Door

T'Gallant cellar door is situated in the heart of the Red Hill area in the Mornington Peninsula. This is the first time I have visited the area so I wasn't sure what to expect so when I saw rolling hills and extremely narrow roads with large tree overhanging, I was pleasantly surprised. 


The cellar door is open seven days a week with a gorgeous restaurant and pizza bar attached. The staff at cellar door are very friendly and seem to be able to pick what sort of service they need to deliver to achieve the best outcome for them and for the patron.



The restaurant uses their own or local produce when producing any of their wonderful meals


T'Gallant Ophelia 2006 Sparkling White

The bottle is marketed towards working women, who just want to go out and have some fun but the quality of the bubbles inside is a little more serious than that. There are lovely nutty notes with creamed grapefruit and spice rolling on through with a mouthfeel that feels like it is a mixture between silk and cotton. The texture sort of coats my tongue before the bubbles releases another wave of flavours.   For the money this is rather impressive.

Alcohol: 12%
Price: $29
Rated: 88
Drink: Whenever

T'Gallant Grace Pinot Grigio 2011

T'Gallant focus on all things Pinot G and this wine comes from the vines just outside the cellar door. The wine is light and fresh but still packs a punch with flavour. I noted flavours of smoked pears, lime and honeysuckle which filled the mouth before a nice acid wedge finished me off. True to the variety is this little number but it did need just a touch extra brightness and nervy acidity to move into the Italian end of the spectrum. This is one of the best Aussie versions of this variety that I have tried.

Alcohol: 12.5%
Price: $29
Rated: 89
Drink: Now - 2016

T'Gallant Tribute Pinot Gris 2010

These guys are brilliant as they have a Pinot G spectrum on the back of the bottle which tell you how far along the luscious or zesty spectrum this wine is. The one I tasted here was towards the end of the richness scale. There are some lovely poached pears and spice before a sugar coated wave of warmth hits my mouth. The alcohol sticks out a bit which blurs the enjoyment lines for me but it does add a bit of extra texture. You win some and you loose some with the 10 days extra this spent on the vine when compared to the Grace Pinot Grigio.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $39
Rated: 85
Drink: Now - 2017



T'Gallant Claudius 2008

This wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Moscato Giallo and Gewurztraminer and it spent 7 months on skins before being pressed off and put back into barrel. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. The nose is beguiling in its delivery of sweet summer flowers and spice. One could almost just sit back and smell this without taking it to the next level. Alas I want to take it all the way so I let the fine nectar touch my lips. On the palate the wine texture and vibrancy is mesmerising. The taste is not at all like the smell, rather the palate is bone dry with notes of peach and flint taking hold. The wine has massive mouthfeel with a chalkiness that kicks in as the flavours start to fade. What stand out is the length of the palate which seems build in depth as it sits in the glass. 

Alcohol: 12.5%
Price: $45
Rated: 92
Drink: In 5 to 10 years


T'Gallant Tribute Pinot Noir 2010

In the Mornington they pride themselves on making beautiful Pinot Noir. The flavours of this wine are big and new world but it does have a little old world dirt in the mix to keep things real. On the palate there is baked raspberries and cherries mixed with cinnamon, earth and a drop of spice. The entrance of the flavour is good but the alcohol kicks in from about the mid-palate on. I would expect that the alcohol would be better masked if this was paired with a nice fat duck dish. 

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $69
Rated: 91
Drink:  Now - 2017

Wednesday 14 November 2012

Kalleske JMK VP 2009

One of the most under-rated wine styles in Australia has started to be embraced by wine-makers which means you should start seeing some quality VP's coming on to the market at ridiculously low prices. This wine is made from the same grapes that goes into the Estate Shiraz from Kalleske which normally gets released at a much higher price.

Kalleske JMK VP 2009

Beautifully plush and inviting with some brilliant brandy spirit balancing out the wine. This almost tastes savoury compared to the normal fortified from the Barossa which makes this so easy to reach for a second glass. On the palate the wine is dark with flavours of blackberry jam, Christmas pudding and brandy snaps. The flavours make me think of sitting around on Christmas day with an abundance of dessert that you just want to stick your head into. MMM and it feels satisfying.

Alcohol: 19%
Price: $23
Rated: 92
Drink: Now - 2030

Tuesday 13 November 2012

Whistling Eagle Sangiovese 2010 + Vegetable Torte

The region of Heathcote is fast becoming my go to region for quality Sangiovese as the areas seems to have enough warmth to ripen the variety without turning it into just another full bodied red. The Whistling Eagle vines are grown in the Greenstone area which comprises ancient soil sub-striates. What was surprising with this wine was that it was only medium bodied with some lovely sour notes so I decided to pair this with a vegetable torte.

Vegetable Torte

The best thing with this dish is you can use any vegetable that is left over in your fridge but in this version I decided to go with these.

1 bunch fresh asparagus ( I have them growing in my garden), sliced
1 onion, chopped
1 zucchini, sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
125 g spinach
handful of fresh herbs from the garden
100 g parmesan, grated
250 g riccotta
250 g mascarpone
4 eggs, whisked
olive oil


Steam the asparagus and remove when done, 2 to 3 minutes. Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Add oil to a pan and heat. Add onions and cook until soft but not brown. Add zucchini and cook until brown and then add garlic and cook for another minute. Add the spinach and cook until it starts to wilt. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool.

Add the asparagus and herbs to the cool mixture and then add the parmesan, riccotta, mascarpone and eggs and fold together. Place in a circular springform tin  and cook in oven for 25 - 35 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool before serving. Serve with a fresh mixed green salad.



Whistling Eagle Sangiovese 2010

This wines starts out light and bright with flavours of cherries and Italian herbs with more savoury than sweet notes. It is the sort of wine that I could easily such down no worries but it is the underlying structure that pulls my attention towards the serious side of the wine world. The drying structure pulls the wine long through my mouth with a light hand yet the wine still has depth of flavour. The true complexity of the wine took a few days to shine through but when it did this wine was lovely to drink.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $28
Rated: 88+
Drink: 2014 - 2020

Giaconda Chardonnay 2010

Every November Rick releases his newsletter and offer for his up coming wines so it is fitting that I should review this wine now. Since Giaconda's inception in 1985, the estate has produced stunning Chardonnay but in recent times the consistency has been spectacular. Put simply this wine is almost perfection bottled.

Giaconda Chardonnay 2010

To begin with I thought this wine didn't possess the normal power that I associate with this label but the wine kept on pulsating on my tongue. With each heart beat the wine gained depth of flavour and weight until it was almost too much to take. Actually this wine is beautifully balanced between power and elegance with flavours of dried grapefruit, peach juice, roasted nuts, struck quartz and lemon tart just adding to the experience. Even though I mention the flavours this wine is more about texture, structure and balance. It is a wine to sit back on your favourite chair with a big arse glass and just let the time pass you by.

Alcohol: 13%
Price: $120
Rated: 96+
Drink: 2020 +



Sunday 11 November 2012

Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir 2008's


This was written for Australian Wine Showcase Magazine A few months ago

Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir 2008's


As I wake up today I can see the fog has rolled in outside which makes me feel uneasy.  It almost as if a four piece orchestra should be playing a tune about the impending doom that awaits. Once I am ready to head to the airport I slink into my car only to find that ice has encrusted itself onto every window in my car.  Luckily I carry a large bottle of water for such occasions so I douse the windows with water and crank the heat up to high. On the way down to the airport my mind drifts away to all things pinot noir and I start to feel a wave of energy run through my body. My mouth starts to salivate with the possibility of beautiful wines being poured right in front of me. As I park my car, my mid drifts back to reality which is fortunate as I am now running a little behind time. I quickly get my boarding pass and head down to the gate with my visit Tasmania magazine that I picked up on the way only to find that I am the last to board. Once in my seat I flick open my magazine to find a piece on the cheeses and food culture in Hobart.
As the plane levels out I look out at the most stunning crystal blue sky stretching out as far as the eye can see.  As the journey takes me closer to Hobart, little white clouds emerge which reminds me more of a stiff egg white than atmospheric formations. As the plane starts to make its final decent one thing stands out. Generally as the plane descends, you get the feeling of the temperature warming up but this does not occur at all.  In Hobart the sun is shining but the temperature is an icy cold five degrees when I arrive. Some thoughts start racing through my head as we pull into the terminal like, am I going to freeze or will my spring time English pullover keep me warm as I am led through Pinot Noir vineyards at the winery? Quickly as these two troublesome thought s entre my mind one calming thought takes over which is that Tasmania must be one of the most marginal areas in Australia and that makes for the possibility of exciting wine experiences.

As I drive towards the city center I remember a holiday I had in Hobart a few years ago. It was coming into the end of autumn but it already felt like it was the heart of winter. In the morning I woke up and headed down into Salamanca place on a Saturday morning for a coffee and something special from the local bakery.  What I found was a producers market that spanned the length of the place. The square was built around the 1990s and is lined by monumental sandstone buildings which remind me more of Bordeaux than Australia.  Every Saturday growers from around Hobart travel into the markets to sell their wares to the locals and holiday goers. It was my lucky day on my holiday as the Bruno Island Cheese Company was selling some of the most interesting and tasty cheeses I have ever tried in Australia. The markets are all about discovering what Tasmania and Hobart has to offer and you could spend hours just sampling your way around the little stalls. Alas I couldn't day dream any longer as I had to tuck myself into bed as it would be a long day of tasting and talking. 

The sun had only just peaked its head over the skyline, casting its glorious arms of colourful bright lights which would illuminate my path as I wanted to go for a run before the day began. As I ran across the cobble stone path, towards the bluff I notice what looks like frost covering the grass but I soon realize that those majestic moments will only last a few moments longer as the sun’s warmth would soon melt it all away. Once I start running I quickly forget that it is cold in Hobart and I start thinking about how the day will pan out. After I am ready to go I am picked up and driven out to Granton which is 20 minutes drive along a windy road along the coast. There are a few wineries along the way but it is the museum that stands out as it is architecturally stunning yet a contrast to the surrounding buildings.  The Mona museum was established in 2001 by David Walsh who is an art collector who also happens to be a billionaire. Most of the artwork is from David’s private collection while the building is something that can only be seen to be believed. One could say that it is a beacon for the area. Once we pass Mona it is not long until we arrive at Stefano Lubiana which is situated on a north east facing slope just a stone’s throw away from the Derwent River. This aspect allows for the cool winds to chill the grapes at night if it has been warm during the day but as we have been having the El nino weather system for the last two years it has just been cold all the time. Stefano and his wife Monique planted their first vineyard in 1991 with the white block commencing planting in 1995. The white block consistently produces the best quality Pinot Noir from the Estate and now forms almost 100% of the Sasso label. Stefano wasn’t planning on planting Pinot in the block in 1995 but a friend, Michael, who happened to be in mining but was obsessed with wine went to Stefano for some advice.  They came up with the idea that Michael could plant Pinot in the most marginal of areas on their estate and lease the vineyard from them for 15 years to which he agreed.  Once the vineyard came online the first two crops produced brilliant Pinot which was released under his own label. With the continual success of mining and smelting in the area the company that Michael worked for was bought by a Chinese company who soon moved Michael to China. The Lubiana’s took back the lease of the vineyard and soon after the Sasso label was born.

After passing the white block we arrive at our destination which happens to be a big hole in the ground. The massive hole looks like someone has dropped a bomb and the earth has scattered around the edges but really it is the start of their new wine cave, restaurant and cellar door. Stefano had this dream to build a state-of-the-art elegant restaurant with a cellar underneath that could house his entire production of sparkling wines. They had a budget of $800,000 to compete the project including the architecture’s fees. They went through the arduous task of designing the building with the architecture firm and they ended up with a building that they were very happy with except of thing. The price! The project would end up costing over $2 ½ million. If that was me I would have gone back to the drawing boards but not so for Stefano or Monique as they decided that they could build it themselves for the price that they could afford. When I arrived they had just completed digging out the earth for the cellar. It will result in the wines being stored in the earth that the vines are in just a few hundred meters away. Once it is complete the restaurant will take its fresh produce from the vegetable patches that lie just at the bottom of the building . What could be more exciting than that? Well, Stafano has been cultivating his own unique Pinot Noir vines over the past 2 years. They are unique to his vineyard as they are from the natural fertilization between the vines he has on his property. Over the course of his trials he will select the best quality producing vines and plant them out into a single vineyard which may become a single vineyard wine. This is an exciting period for Stefano and the Australian wine scene as this project will result in a truly authentic representation of Pinot Noir from Tasmania which may result in more people becoming enthused and trying to produce their own unique wines.

In the winery everything is geared up for experimentation and refining of skills but what do I really mean by that. Well, there is a section set aside for oak Rieslings, which this year comes in at 10 barrels.  Stefano tastes then regularly to track the development but hasn't made a decision as to what he is going to do with them. He could make a single vineyard limited release wine or blend it into his premium label to fill out the mid-palate and increase the textural component of the wine. Right next to these barrels lays an amphora which is a clay fermentation vessel that resembles a large chicken egg. Stefano is also experimenting with extended maceration and he is doing this in a science based manner. He has found out that the Europeans have been doing extended maceration for some time now but it is the Slovenians that have been documenting the effects. Stefano has got his hands on the research and is following up with those techniques. As a result of his trials Stefano now allows all of his red wines to have extended contact with their skins but it ranges from an extra 2 weeks for his Primavera label to an extra 2 ½ months for his Merlot. This means that he selects particular parcels for extended maceration and then allows them to develop slowly. The only thing that is used in the winery is a little sulfur which would mean that this winery is at the forefront of natural wine-making. All of the wines taste clean and structured which is at odds with many natural wine-makers in Australia but the wines do possess that extra flavour and easiness like so many European natural wines.

It was a lot to take in as we work our way through the winery but it was magical to sit at a long wooden table with three glasses of Pinot Noir from the experimentation that has occurred over the last 6 years. The below wines are the first release from the trials that were kept separate in 2008. Stefano could keep these separate as the yields were a little higher in 2008.

Selection 1/3 Pinot Noir 2008
There is only 480 bottle of this extended maceration wine which makes this as scarce as hens teeth. The wine spent 146 days on skins and was bottled under cork. On the nose the wine seems to be bursting from the seams with masses of dark fruit and spice sprinting out of the glass. Once the wine enters my mouth it coats every last millimetre of vacant space. It has texture and brightness in a dirty earthy sort of manner with fruit flavours of cherry and wild boar. The flavours aren't really the thing that sets this apart from most of the other top quality Pinot Noir in Australia; rather it is the wealth of tannins that latch on to my mouth and never let me go that takes this into the stratosphere.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $60
Rated: 95
Drink: Give it another 6 years and it will see its 15th birthday

Selection 2/3 Pinot Noir 2008

This wine was fermented in a more conventional manner as it was fermented in stainless steel tank for 16 days with only the MV6, 115 and 116 clones used. The wine smells sweeter than the previous wine and also more approachable. This transfers onto the palate but the brightness is evident like the previous wine. The flavours remind me of summer when I was a kid as I was obsessed with raspberry sorbet and caramel swirls. One could almost call this bottled childhood but I won’t go that far. There is a softness to the palate weight and a lightness to the delivery of flavours which makes this very appealing.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $60
Rated: 92
Drink: Whenever you want

Selection 3/3 Pinot Noir 2008

The last of the trio was selected due to the sub-soil and is a combination of two vineyards, the white block and red block. This wine is a balance between lightness and richness as there is a rose petal and cherry blossom component over blueberries, dirt and sweet aged vinegar. The mid-palate is super rich and there is a treasure trove of chalk tannins coming through which makes me think I should give this another 5 years for it to show its true potential.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $60
Rated: 94
Drink: 2017 - 2024

2008 Stefano Lubiana Selection Series Pinot Noir