Twenty ten is my daughter’s birth year so I needed to think
hard about the wine or wines I would lay down for her. Not only could it shape
her wine habit in the long run but it meant I had to look at the wines ability
to age.
The weather conditions in Tuscany and Bolgherti was
characterised as a challenge with mildew pressures in Tuscany. The slow start
to the season was brought on by a lower than normal temperature during spring
which resulted in small bunch sets and eventually bunch weights. The sun shone
brightly during the critical months but the vines handled it well due to the
large amount of reserves they had from the wet and snow seasons. The sorting
table must have been used to make top quality wines.
Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2010
From perspective I wanted this to be the all-time best wines
that I could lay down for Amelie. It is the estate’s history and the link that
they still have with the founding family that is most satisfying.
This year’s wine is savoury as hell with nuggets of fresh
cut flowers, brambles, plum skin and spice on a medium bodied frame with
elegance to burn. There is a moment of cassis and clay on an otherwise
extremely long and svelte train of tannins. They just keep going and going but
this is not the little train that could. This is a beautiful piece of artwork
bottled.
Alcohol:
Price: $199
Rated: 95
Drink: 2017 - 2034
Tenutadell'Ornellaia Ornellaia 2010
This wine
is the 25th anniversary from this winery so I guess they had an
extra degree of expectation on them. The estate was founded by Marchese
Antinori in 1981 with the first vintage in 1985 off of 4 year old vines. In
2002 the Estate was acquired by Mondavi along with the completion of a few
newer vineyards. Out of the three wines this has the most power and intensity.
Yes it is monumental with 55% Cabernet, 39% Merlot and a nudge of Cab Franc and
Petit Verdot bringing up the tail end. The Merlot lead the way with its flavour
of chocolate coated plums and tobacco before the Cabernet kicks in. What this
wine does is balance out the massive structure and flavour with the lightness
of the Cab Franc adding interest. This is
still a baby but it is massively long in the mouth and so exquisitely put
together.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $260
Rated: 97
Drink: 2018 - 2035
Isole
e Olena Cepparello 2010
Like
always this year’s wine is 100% Sangiovese but this version sees 25 new oak for
18 months before bottling. Initially this wine was more about savoury
characters than the normal cherry fruit that comes through. Think more along
the lines of roasted spices from the Turkish bazaar mixed with dried earth and
fresh twigs but as the wine uncoils itself from the tannins there are moments
of blood plums and wild cherries. The intensity of the wine is most impressive,
even more so than the 04 or the 06, while it still is only medium to full in weight.
At the moment I would be scared to open this as the tannins are ferocious and
primal. Patience is the key.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $100
Rated: 96 +
Drink: 2020 - 2040
Importer: Negociants Australia
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