Torbreck The Descendant 2012

Torbreck seem to try to walk the line between ultra ripe fruit and lush textures. Sometimes they pull it off and they are brilliant wines. On the other side sometimes they push the limit a little too far. I guess the Barossa is going through a change as there is more diversity in the styles coming from the region which is a good thing.

Torbreck The Descendant 2012

The nose feel lush and lick but there is a chili heat already coming through. On the palate it is still evident but it is joined by scorched earth, tar and dried ink. I like the mouth fell yet the heat is too much for me. I guess as it was picked in early April in 2012 that could explain the heat component. Either way I would be drinking this earlier and in winter rather than summer.

Alcohol: 15%
Price: $125
Rated: 87
Drink: Now - 2019

Pirathon by Kalleske Shiraz 2013

The Barossa managed to produce some ripe flavour in 2013 and are more open and inviting than the 2012 or 2014 wines at this level of their development. This wine is a sub-regional blend from a lot of old school Barossa vignerons.

Pirathon by Kalleske Shiraz 2013

This wine underwent the traditional winemaking with open fermenters, hand plunging and storage in a mix of oaks. Four different types of oak, American, French, Hungarian and Russian, were used and they all contribute different flavours to the wine. The wine starts of sweet with the American oak taking centre stage. In fact the oak smothered the fruit for the four days I had the bottle open, except for a little while a note of burnt chocolate plums moved in. It is a full bodied experience with a thick texture all the way through and I think would need some charcoaled meat to accompany it.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $23
Rated: 84
Drink: Now - 2018

Tommy Ruff Romanee Tuff 2014

This wine from Tom Shobbrook sits under his own label but is made from the same vineyard that is 20 m from his family house in Seppeltfield. This label allows tom to experiment in style and push things further than they have gone before in the Barossa. Think really slurp able wines that are not heavy at all. 

Tommy Ruff Romanee Tuff 2014

This is a Shiraz or Syrah but it feels more like a Pinot Noir.  In the beginning there are red fruits in the form of strawberries and cranberries mixed with dried herbs and earth which are so fragrant and inviting it was scary. The palate weight is light with only a dusting of tannin to be found but I don’t think this is built for the long haul, rather a fun and inviting moment with something different from the Barossa yet still retains the goodness from the area. 

Alcohol: 13%
Price: $27
Rated: 87
Drink: Now

Heathvale Wines The Belief Sagrantino 2012

From all the current release Sagrantino's this is the best one but I think they could have gone further. This wine is hand picked from a small Sagrantino vineyard that used to be a chardonnay vineyard until it was grafted over to Sagrantino. The bunches were de-stemmed into small open top fermenters and fermented on skins for 7 days. Now here it is, if the tannin profile was a little more prominent and representative of the variety I would have given it a few extra points. That said the lighter easier tannins make it easy to access now. In the end, who rally cares when it tastes this good.

This isn't released yet and will come out when the 2011 sells out.

Heathvale Wines The Belief Sagrantino 2012

This has a very pretty and attractive nose with cherries, potpourri and spice woven into the body of this medium bodied wine. The wine is clean as a whistle and is laden with flavours in the bright end of the spectrum. The acidity pops at the end of the wine which lifts the sensation up and above. There is a nice balance between the acidity and the flavour profile with the light and fluffy tannins sitting firmly under everything. Beautiful and more of a sweet song than a violent melody. Drink with a little meat ragu.

Alcohol:
Price: $35
Rated: 92
Drink: Now - 2025

Teusner Avatar 2013

The 2013 wines I've tried have been fruit forward and more enjoyable than the 2012 at this stage. I think the 12s have greater structure and will take more time to show their full potential than the 13s. The 13s I would drink now or sooner as they offer joyous flavours that are fully ripe.

Teusner Avatar 2013

I decided to watch Avatar while drinking this wine as it meant I was fully immersed in the Avatar experience. What is most notable about this wine is the creaminess of the palate. It feels like eating a really svelte vanilla ice cream with added flavours of a mixed bag of lollies that I used to buy at the corner store when I was just a teenager. The sweetness is the main feature of the spectrum but the back end it pulled savoury by the Mataro. Joining the flavours are stewed prunes, chocolate sauce and spiced earth on a medium bodied frame. The flavours open quickly and it was easy to slurp down a couple glasses without much trouble.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $30
Rated: 86
Drink: Now - 2020

Gatt Wines Accent Tempranillo 2012

The Barossa can be a bit hit and miss when it comes to Tempranillo.

Gatt Wines Accent Tempranillo 2012

No good. Nuff said.

Alcohol:
Price: $20
Rated: 78
Drink: Now

Chris Ringland Reservation Shiraz 2010

About 10 years ago I was obsessed with trying to get my hands on a bottle of Chris Ringland’s Three Rivers Shiraz. While I would love to try a bottle now, it is possible to try his wine styles at a more attractive and accessible price tag (50 bucks not 750 bucks). He definitely puts his heart into the wine and it is a massively full bodied number. In fact I have to change my scale it include this number right above what I would normally full bodied. This comes more akin to port in the weight of it and the meal that it pair with.

 

Chris Ringland Reservation Shiraz 2010

 

I tried this wine with a nice stew but it just killed it with really sweet jammy fruit characters so I decided to wait until I served the chocolate mud cake. This worked better but I would recommend drinking this by itself in the heart of winter. There is a cooked prune moment mixed with baileys and ice cream before it moves to a mulled wine character. This comes in the form of warmth and spicy on the finish but it is the mouth feel that is the most enticing. This comes in the form of thick glycerol as it coats the front palate on entry.

 

Alcohol: 16%

Rated: 83

Price: $50
Drink: Now - 2016

 

 

 

Torzi Matthew Frost Dodger Shiraz 2012 & Riesling 2013

Two Torzi Matthews wines of ultra high quality and the Shiraz is the best wine I have tried from this producer ever.

 

Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Riesling 2013

 

This wine is intense with the flavours tasting more like they come in the essence form rather than the off the tree. It is also so minerally and/or slatey that it feel like you would be at a mine site. In the end the wine finishes with great vitality and structure.

 

Alcohol: 13%

Price: $25

Rated: 90

Drink: Now - 2025 

 

 

Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Shiraz 2012

 

The Frost Dodger Shiraz comes from a single vineyard in the elevated Eden Valley. The 16 year old vines are single wire positioned with 30 % whole bunches during fermentation before being pressed into French oak hogsheads for 16 months. For a wine that sees a lot of oak the impact is negligible. The mouth-feel is a little creamy and silky but otherwise the oak has been swallowed up. The first thing you notice is the beautiful aromatics that are flowing out of the glass. They are mesmerising and delicate with floral notes mixed with hinted of Indian spices. On the palate these aromatic flavours are joined by the essence of blackberries and blood plums mixed with sage butter. It is a delightful wine and one that makes me rethink about how I think about Shiraz based wines.

 

Alcohol: 14.5%

Price: $38

Rated: 93

Drink: Now – 2028

 

Elderton Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

The vines for this single vineyard wine were planted in 1944 and tended by the Ashmead family. The wine spent 18 months is 100% new French oak before being bottled in some kick arse bottles.

 

 

Elderton Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

 

Full bodied and rocking booze. The wine is both regional and varietal with masses of plum soaked currants, brandy snaps and chocolate mud cake thrown in. There isn’t a hint of leafiness or capsicum notes that are associated with this variety but this is a statement in quality. Any oak? Yes but it has been totally swallow by the fruit. If you want to impress, this wine will serve that purpose and a bit more.

 

Alcohol: 14.5%

Price: $90

Rated: 90

Drink: Now – 2024

 

Heathvale Vineyard Sagrantino 2011

The Heathvale vineyard vines are old Chardonnay root stock that has been grafted onto Sagrantino. This has reduced the amount of disease in the vines that many of the other growers are experiencing with the original root stock. The variety is the undisputed king for phenolic compounds in the skins and the highest tannin level for all wines. Drink at your own peril.

 

Heathvale Vineyard Sagrantino 2011

 

The 2011 wine looks good even though it comes from a cool vintage. There is a nice plum lift along with cranberries and summer flowers which makes this a lighter style wine in term of depth of flavour and flavour profile. The wine possesses good balance of flavour and texture but it doesn’t possess the tannic kick that is associated with the variety. Why? Maceration. This wine only spends a short time on skins before being pressed off into barrel. Does it suffer as a result? No not really, it just makes it easier to drink as a young wine.

 

Alcohol: 14.3%

Price: $35

Rated: 88

 

Drink: Now – 2024

The Christmas Issue

The Christmas Issue

 

Its Christmas time so get out your National Lampoons Christmas vacation, sit back in the couch and open something cold. This time of year lends itself to catching up with everyone, not just you family, on every night of the week. Today it is my wife’s workplace Christmas lunch so they have pulled out all the stops with a catered lunch and beverages on show. You have to love when you get paid to have a few drinks as it lifts the spirits. Enjoy any of these drinks below, especially as a few of them are pink in colour which makes them the national drink for this time of year.

 

Vigna Cantina Rosata di Sangiovese 2013

 

To begin with there is an enchanting cherry lipstick note which is both pretty and light. Once I sip it the wine comes across as medium bodied with hints of spice and lemon balm. These flavours give the impression of good complexity, especially when the wine was served really cold, and the best thing about it is the dryness that the wine finishes with. Drink up with the weather is hot!

 

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $20

Rated: 86

Drink: Now – 2015

 

 

Pizzini Rosetta 2013

 

This wine is lighter in colour and weight of flavour but this only means that it would be a better match for starters or entrée meals. Flavours of strawberries, rose hip and spice come oozing out and they don’t stop working their hips baby. This is a beautifully styled Rose that has acidity as its driving force. Bring more of this on as this didn’t even last the night. There is also a textural element that takes the interest factor up a level.

 

Alcohol: 11.5%

Price: $17.50

Rated: 87

Drink: Now

 

Running with Bulls Tempranillo 2012

 

The bomb! This is on special at the moment so it is around the $14 mark but it is worth around the 25 to 35 mark. This little medium bodied delight has complexity up the wazoo with flavours of cherry cola, wood smoked bark, spice and blueberry pie. All these flavour are built of a savoury profile with silky tannins flowing underneath. I have half a page written about this wine on my notes but the word that comes up the most is lovely! I’ve bought some now you need to get on the band wagon.

 

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $14 - $18

Rated: 87

Drink: Now – 2020

 

 

Azienda Agricola COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2010

 

This wine comes in a kick arse squat bottle which makes this wine feel impressive even before you open it. The winery has only been around since 1980 and they focus on everything that is associated with the Sicilian heritage. They utilise amphora’s and older wood which lets the textural and flavour of the indigenous varieties speak loudest. The savoury flavours of orange rind, blood plums, dried autumn leaves and spice are major with a spearmint component on the back end. The medium bodied palate weight is so satisfying and is a pure joy as it is miles away for the over bearing and clean nature of a some of the Australian wines.  

 

Alcohol: 13%

Price: $50
Rated: 91
Drink: Now - 2020
Importer: Enoteca Sydney

John Duval Plexus 2011

John Duval Plexus 2011

 

Twenty eleven is turning out to be a very elegant year in the Barossa. The flavours are slightly confected  with a slick and creamy mouth-feel sitting over the top. I really like the flavour profile of cherry jam and a mix bag of lollies with the strawberries and cream leading the way. It isn't a dirty or an earthy wine rather a fruitful wine with not as much power as normal. It drinks well now but will reward short term cellaring.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $37
Rated: 89
Drink: Now - 2016

Elderton Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Cabernet can be a difficult variety to get right. It generally needs cooler nights with milder days to show its true colours but it can handle some heat before it turns to jam.

 

Elderton Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

 

Regional yes and varietal as well with blackcurrant pastilles mixed with wild nettles and cedar.  The wine is full bodied and balances with a nice easy acidity on the back end. While the wine doesn’t possess the savoury aspects that come from Coonawarra or Margaret River it does possess the lovely coco powder and liquorice notes that Barossa is so good at showing. This will keep for 10 easy but it drinks so well now I wouldn’t bother cellaring it. The tannins are silky and non-invasive but they do provide the wine with drive along the palate.

 

Alcohol: 14.5%

Price: $25

Rated: 90

Drink: Now – 2023

 

Elderton Ode to Lorriane 2009

People have been producing wine for thousands of years but it is only recently that people have focused on single varieties. Many believe that the early wine-makers produced wine for religious and cultural ceremonies. The blending of different varieties allowed for quality wines to be produced under different weather conditions. If one variety didn’t do too well then another would step up to the plate.

Elderton Ode to Lorriane 2009

This wine is a blend of Cabernet, Shiraz and Merlot that has spent 24 months in a mix of French and American Oak. Even though the Merlot is 9% of the blend it leads the way on day 1 with flavours of fresh mint and baked plums. From day 2 a mix of lemon rind, mulberries and fresh cuts herbs joins the party. While I like the flavours and the hint of grippy tannins the palate is a little narrow and the warmth from the alcohol is coming through. From such a hot vintage this is pretty good.

 

Alcohol: 14%

Price: Under $40

Rated: 86

Drink: Now - 2019

 

The Shiraz edition

The Shiraz edition

 

Shiraz is the number one selling variety in Australia even though it the sales are on the decline. What has changed is the style that wine-makers aim for. The big bad monsters are reducing and the savoury and more balanced wines are on the up. Shiraz works well as it can grow in so many different climates. It seems to show all the weather conditions and turn out anything from full bodied to medium bodied with flavours of fruit and spice. If you are after something that drinks well from the get go then turn your head towards Shiraz.

 

Tuck's Ridge Shiraz 2011

 

Savoury flavours are evident to begin with but there is a nice amount of boysenberry loving to fill the fruit bin. The weight builds in the mouth over the 4 days I had this open so I would suggest that it could go a few years before it really shows well.  It is elegant and medium bodied with plenty of acidity to hold it in good stead. If you drink it now the first thing that you notice is the green peppercorns and French herbs before it finishes with spice. A lovely little 2011 Shiraz from the Mornington.

 

Alcohol: 13%

Price:

Rated: 91

Drink: After 2017

 

 

Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2011

The first thing that you notice about this wine is the slippery texture that doesn’t really possess much tannin at all. I like the texture but would like a bit more tannin. On the other hand the spicy flavours are rather nice. They are medium bodied with hints of brambles, pepper and raspberry coulis. The wine comes across as soft and cuddly in a drink now style. While I do like the flavour spectrum this isn’t in the same league as the 2010 version.

 

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $24

Rated: 83

Drink: Now – 2016

 

Torzi Matthews Moppa Hills Shiraz 2012

 

The vines for this wine were planted in 1903 which makes this special stuff. What is better is the price as many wines from old vine material normally sits at about 100 bucks. This is under 40 which makes it a bargain. The flavours of blackberries, chocolate cake and glaze cherries are rich but totally balanced. The flavours are balanced by a creamy mouth feel and polished tannins. With many of these 2012s they need time for the oak to fully integrate but when they do oh boy you are set for fun. What will be interesting is to see the difference between the 2012s and 2013s. We will see which one comes out the victor.

 

Alcohol: 14.2%

Price: $35

Rated: 90

Drink: 2016 – 2027

 

 

Wild Duck Creek Estate Springflat 2011

The Springflat is normally one of my favourites from the Wild Duck Creek range and give me the ability to see what is in store for me up the range. While I don’t like the American oak in the wine I think it is balanced given a long sleep in the cellar. The flavours of boiled leather, dirty mint, scorched earth and essence of spiced blackberries are very different than normal which makes this an interesting addition to the range. I would be giving this medium to full bodied wine 5 years to show well and then start opening the stash.

 

Alcohol: 15%

Price: $50

Rated: 89

Drink: 2018 +

 

Heathvale Vineyard Riesling 2013

Heathvale Vineyard Riesling 2013

All the typical flavours of lemon lime but there is a hint of richness in the form of orange blossom coming through on the mid-palate. THere is a touch of chalkiness coming through but otherwise that is what you get. The wine offers restraint and I think it will get better with a few year in the cellar. As a drink now wine it isn't for me for as the complexity isn't there. Hide in the cellar and drink somthing else now.

Alcohol: 11.3%
Price:$23
Rated: 87
Drink: 2016+

Henschke Joann's Garden 2010

Do you choose a wine based on a single variety or a blend? I think many people look for single varieties as they think the standard is higher. I guess they are correct as most companies choose to release their bench mark wine as a single variety but I think this should change. Wines like Grange, Majella's Malleea and most of the top red wines out of Margaret River are blends. Each variety adding its own unique aspect that is greater than the individual parts. Blends also allow the winery to add a brilliant name to their top wine. This is a marketing dream as it adds something to the brand. If we look towards Europe then blends rain king. Anyway I should stop ranting and get on with the wine.


Henschke Joann's Garden 2010

Henschke has managed to combine beautiful perfumed noted with lively and silky mouth-feel. The oak has been totally consumed by the red-berry flavours and this all fits of a medium bodied frame. Nothing is over done but the wine is slow to evolve which makes me think that it will need a bit to show all of the magic that it holds. If you are into high quality wine with richness and elegance this fits the bill.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price; $45
Rated: 93
Drink: 2016 - 2025

Elderton Wines Command Shiraz 2009

Many examples of Shiraz through out the world are savoury with a more medium bodied palate. If not done well they can be weedy and tough to drink. The Barossa could never be accused of producing these weedy wines or anything other than full bodied Shiraz. Elderton makes a more old school example with full on flavours the main stay. That said the 2010 estate is a beautiful wine with more restraint than I have seen in a while. This might be the result as the seasons have been really hot with not much rain to freshen up the vines.

Elderton Wines Command Shiraz 2009

Massively toasty with huge amounts of creamy oak in play. Once the flavours come out they are forward and erect. Not really sure that erect is the appropriate word but it works well. These comforting flavours are in the form of plum pudding, chocolate covered raisins and coconut slice.  These powerful flavours are full bodied but balanced and would work well in the dark winter night. I would recommend drinking this in the shorter term but it still offers enjoyment.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $95
Rated: 89
Drink: Now - 2020

Head Wine Head Red GSM 2012

Alex Head produces approximately 4000 cases with the Head Red wines taking up almost 50 percent of the production. Alex has worked all over the world and within Australia but he has based his business in Sydney but his fruit all comes from Barossa Valley. Most of the wineries that I have spoken to say that Sydney and Melbourne are the areas that are sucking up quality interesting wines so Alex basing his business in Sydney might be a great thing. The few wines I have tried from this producer have all been brilliant value and very good to great quality.

Head Wine Head Red GSM 2012

When I was a kid I used to get 3 bucks pocket per week and I could spend that on anything I wanted. I used to go into the deli on Fridays after I had finished playing Tennis and buy a Turkish delight and a 20 cent mixed bag of lollies. This wine takes like the mixed bag of lollies so all this emotional energy is flowing back. I feel joyous and nervous at the same time as a sip this wine. There are moments of full bodied coffee, spice and dried clay moments that join the show with not much oak showing anywhere in the wine. Love this now!

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $25
Rated: 87
Drink: Now - 2017

John Duval Entity 2011

To get the normal intensity from the Barossa wines in a year like 2011 they would have had to let the grape sit on the vines longer. This is a problem as disease was running rampant through the region. Can you get rid of disease in the winery? Not really but you can do somethings to reduce the effect such as being very diligent in the selection process and dosing the wine with a touch of sulphur after you have put the grapes trough the destemmer. Sulphur is king in the winery and wont effect the ferment if you only add a touch.

John Duval Entity 2011

The charry oak is center stage upon opening but that is ok at this stage. There are chocolate coated raspberries and spice coming through on a supple and slick palate. While the wine has similarities to last years beautiful wine, this years version is lighter in weight and length and still offers good value and good quality. I really like the mouth feel of the wine at this stage so I could see people getting their teeth into it.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $40
Rated: 87
Drink: Now - 2018