Wild Duck Creek Estate Springflat Shiraz 2013

I sat down with David 'duck" Anderson yesterday and tasted through his new release wines. He is a lovely down to earth fellow that doesn't talk shit. He is a straight shooter. He spoke about the lack of rain that Heathcote has been suffering yet again. He thinks its another drought and I agree with him. Its been cold but the rain just hasn't come in any significant form he says. The 2013s I tasted were from a warmer year which has meant that the fruit is there and in many of his wines the oak has already been swallowed up.

Wild Duck Creek Estate Springflat Shiraz 2013

Boom it is out in the open this wine. This is most probably the best Springflat that I have tasted on release as the oak is already in the background and it is a little less sweet than normal. The first flavour out of the gate is pencil shavings, raspberry coulis, dark chocolate, boiled plums and spice. This is a full bodied wine but still retains a sense of charm and elegance. The tannin structure says stash me away but I say nay open it whenever you want.

Alcohol: 15.7%
Price: $52
Rated: 94
Drink: Now - 2027

Wild Duck Creek Estate Springflat Shiraz 2012

Wild Duck Creek Estate Springflat Shiraz 2012

Massive full bodied wine yet it retains a degree of elegance. The oak is prominent at the moment with the vanillin American oak taking the key role at the moment. The wine took 4 days to loose its oak derived flavours and the regional moments to come through. I liked the mint and plum that was mixed with flint, spice and blackberries once they came to the fore. Furthermore the wine is thick in the mouth but there is enough acidity to hold it in stead for 4 to 5 years before opening them.

Alcohol:
Price: $52
Rated: 92
Drink: 2018 +

Wild Duck Creek Estate Alan's Cabernet 2012

Wild Duck Creek Estate Alan's Cabernet 2012

One hundred percent new French hogsheads has been the vessel for this Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot blend but the oakiness has been absorbed pretty well. It is still evident but in 8 years, when I would start to open these, it will be fully resolved. At the moment the wine tastes like chocolate mints, cinnamon, blackcurrant pastilles and dried flowers with a medium amount of acidity kicking in. I would call the wine plush but savoury and full bodied yet more elegant than monumental. It treads the line between Parkerism and just full bodied flavours that are well kept by structure. From my perspective it is structured and elegant with full bodied flavours.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $60
Rated: 90 +
Drink: 2020 +

Ducks in a Row Pandora's Amphora 2012

The wine here was inspired by the T'Gallant Claudius white wine on skins which was inturn inspired by Gravner. The grapes are hand picked from the Charmers vineyard in Heathcote and fermented together in a clay pot that has been sealed up after ferment finished. The grapes are pressed off after about 8 months into a used puncheon before going to bottle.

Ducks in a Row Pandora's Amphora 2012

The wine is rather clear and light for what I was expecting was an orange wine. I guess as it hasn't spent much time in contact with oxygen has resulted in a texture wine that doesn't possess those more extreme moments like Gravner's wines. On the nose there is some beautiful aromatics but the palate works better. There are moments of savoury fruits, think peaches and nectarines, mixed with spring flowers, honey and gunmetal. The palate weight is thick but it is balanced by acidity and a fine degree of tannins. These tannins are light, supple and sit firmly under the flavour.

Well done and such a difference for a Heathcote white wine.

Alcohol:
Price: $90
Rated: 93
Drink: Now - 2020

Tyrrell’s The Lost Block Shiraz 2012

Tyrrell’s The Lost Block Shiraz 2012

This is the most open and approachable of all the current release wines and I suppose that is a feature of the variety. The structure of the wine is lacking but there is a plumpness with red and blackberry flavours that holds the wine in an attractive manner. The entry of the wine is sweet but there are enough fruity flavours to balance it all out. Is this a wine for me? I could happily drink this with a bit of charred meat if I could find it at the right price.

Alcohol: 14.5%

Price: $18

Rated: 83

Drink: Now - 2015

Wild Duck Creek Estate Alan's Vat 1 Cabernet 2011

Normally my favourite from the release but the blend had my lips flapping this year.

 

Wild Duck CreekEstate Alan's Vat 1 Cabernet 2011

 

I started tasting this while I was cooking a BBQ and all I got was a nice dose of satay Chicken. Not what I was expecting so I sat the glass aside for half an hour before going back to the wine. The wine is definitely a field blend of all thing Bordeaux with all components working well together. The medium bodied style is normal for this wine with a light note of pomegranate and brown sugar adding a difference that I wouldn’t normally associate with this label. What I do get that is common is a cinnamon donut flavour mixed with blackcurrant and clay. The flavours work well with the slow to evolve tannin and nice acidity with the oak sitting firmly in the background. The wine won’t be a keeper like so many from this label but it will drink nicely with four years under its belt.

 

Alcohol: 13%

Price: $45

Rated: 88

 

Drink: 2017 – 2026

Chalmers Nero d’Avola 2011

Chalmers is the god father for many of the Italian varieties and in general their wines offer good quality drinking at affordable prices.

 

Chalmers Nero d’Avola 2011

 

What does the term weedy mean? The dictionary says ‘physically weak in appearance and containing or covered with weeds’. The synonyms for weedy are undeveloped, frail, weak, thin and undersized. These terms are not something that I would normally associate with quality wine but that is the leading factor in this wine. I think it has to do with the 2011 vintage as it was a cool and wet year. There are notes of plum but they are green and they are mixed with green pepper corns.

 

Alcohol: 12%

Price: $20

Rated: 82

Drink: Now

Wild Duck Creek Estate Yellow Hammer Hill 2011

The Yellow Hammer Vineyard is situated near the Alan's Cabernet Vineyard but with the vines only being planted in the last 20 years. The wine is made in a fruit driven bistro style whcih means that it drinks well from the get go.

Wild Duck Creek Estate Yellow Hammer Hill 2011

While this wine is from a cooler wetter year there is so much power going on it is scary. The oak and the spicy fruit is already intergrated well with a medium to full bodiedframe and nice mintiness on the back end. If pushed I would say the weight of the wine is just under full bodied with a dirtiness running along the spine of the wine. The Malbec is leading the way with the Shiraz adding a confortable feeling and nice palate weight. Drink now or later it doesn't really matter.

Alcohol: 14.9%
Price: $28
Rated: 88
Drink: Now - 2018

Wild Duck Creek Estate Ducks & Drakes 2011

Ducks & Drakes is an old school game of throwing small stones over water, more precicisely it is the act of skipping stones over water which is normally done at a small pond with a lot of younger members. The last time i did it was when I was 12 at an outdoor school and my mates and I would see how many times we could skip the stone. I can't remember what our record was but this wine takes me back.

Wild Duck Creek Estate Ducks & Drakes 2011

This label is relatively new with most of the productioning going to the U.S. with the other lions share being consumed by mailing list customers.  For a wine from 2011 it doesn't possess the slippery and weedy profile but rather it has leafy cabernet characters and a shiraz bounce in the mid-palate. The oak is high but it all works out by the time day four comes around of being open. I would recommend giving it 5 or so years in the cellar to open up a bit more.

Alcohol: 14.9%
Price: $46
Rated: 87
Drink: 2017 +

The Shiraz edition

The Shiraz edition

 

Shiraz is the number one selling variety in Australia even though it the sales are on the decline. What has changed is the style that wine-makers aim for. The big bad monsters are reducing and the savoury and more balanced wines are on the up. Shiraz works well as it can grow in so many different climates. It seems to show all the weather conditions and turn out anything from full bodied to medium bodied with flavours of fruit and spice. If you are after something that drinks well from the get go then turn your head towards Shiraz.

 

Tuck's Ridge Shiraz 2011

 

Savoury flavours are evident to begin with but there is a nice amount of boysenberry loving to fill the fruit bin. The weight builds in the mouth over the 4 days I had this open so I would suggest that it could go a few years before it really shows well.  It is elegant and medium bodied with plenty of acidity to hold it in good stead. If you drink it now the first thing that you notice is the green peppercorns and French herbs before it finishes with spice. A lovely little 2011 Shiraz from the Mornington.

 

Alcohol: 13%

Price:

Rated: 91

Drink: After 2017

 

 

Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2011

The first thing that you notice about this wine is the slippery texture that doesn’t really possess much tannin at all. I like the texture but would like a bit more tannin. On the other hand the spicy flavours are rather nice. They are medium bodied with hints of brambles, pepper and raspberry coulis. The wine comes across as soft and cuddly in a drink now style. While I do like the flavour spectrum this isn’t in the same league as the 2010 version.

 

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $24

Rated: 83

Drink: Now – 2016

 

Torzi Matthews Moppa Hills Shiraz 2012

 

The vines for this wine were planted in 1903 which makes this special stuff. What is better is the price as many wines from old vine material normally sits at about 100 bucks. This is under 40 which makes it a bargain. The flavours of blackberries, chocolate cake and glaze cherries are rich but totally balanced. The flavours are balanced by a creamy mouth feel and polished tannins. With many of these 2012s they need time for the oak to fully integrate but when they do oh boy you are set for fun. What will be interesting is to see the difference between the 2012s and 2013s. We will see which one comes out the victor.

 

Alcohol: 14.2%

Price: $35

Rated: 90

Drink: 2016 – 2027

 

 

Wild Duck Creek Estate Springflat 2011

The Springflat is normally one of my favourites from the Wild Duck Creek range and give me the ability to see what is in store for me up the range. While I don’t like the American oak in the wine I think it is balanced given a long sleep in the cellar. The flavours of boiled leather, dirty mint, scorched earth and essence of spiced blackberries are very different than normal which makes this an interesting addition to the range. I would be giving this medium to full bodied wine 5 years to show well and then start opening the stash.

 

Alcohol: 15%

Price: $50

Rated: 89

Drink: 2018 +

 

Colder weather is on its way

The weather has started to cool and the leaves on the old English trees have turned to golden yellow and fire reds which make me think of the change of style of food that I look forward to at the end of a long day. The sorts of food that pair perfectly with the mild days and cooler nights are more medium in weight and spice. This means that the wines that would match are of the same weight. Grenache, aged Sparkling, Sangiovese, cool climate Shiraz and Fiano. There are plenty of other varieties that fit that medium bodied frame of mind but these are the ones that immediately came to mind. If I was pressed I would say look to the Italian varieties or cool climate renditions as they are more elegant, structured and restrained.

d’Arenberg d”Arrys Original Shiraz Grenache 2009

d’Arenberg has built part of its reputation on Grenache and the quality of this wine shows as a result. This wine possesses savoury characteristics with a bit of funk thrown in. The Shiraz leads the way on entry but the Grenache takes over from the mid-palate on. While a lot of 2009s are boiled and over ripe, Grenache this wine seem to have avoided that all together. The mild drying tannins meld nicely with the flavours and acidity profile, meaning that it is easy to drink now but has enough gas in the tank to last for a while. What is most surprising in the lack of heat as most Shiraz wines are warm in the mouth due to the amount of sunshine that most of South Australia had in 2009. All in all for a wine that you will find at most retail store for under 20 bucks this is snazzy.

Alcohol: 14.4%

Price: Street price of $17

Rated: 87

Drink: Now - 2018

Jansz Tasmania Brut Cuvee 2007

The fruit for this wine comes mostly from the Tamar Valley in the heart of Tasmania and what stands out most is the level of intensity that this wine possesses. When you compare the 2007 cuvee to the late disgorged 2004 version they aren’t that removed but this wine just has a bit more complexity and vibrancy. The flavours of honeydew melon, grilled nuts, almond meal and double cream burst onto the scene and they continue all the way to the back palate. The palate weight is medium bodied and the flavours are vibrant and fresh. All they need is a bit of food and the complexity is taken up a level. While it would be easy to drink this by itself, it works so well with food I wouldn’t bother to serve this as an aperitif. I would save this for the main event.

Alcohol: 12%

Price: $36

Rated: 92

Drink: Now - 2017

La Guardiense Sannio Fiano 2010

Fiano offers so much in the form of food friendly flavours and just drink-ability I am sure that it will become one of the house hold names in 5 years’ time. This means that people that drink it now get to experience this style at a bargain price. The flavours of honey topped hay, papaya, spice and lemon rind work wonderfully with the flavours transitioning easily. What is so laid-back about this wine is that it is succulent and textured at the same time.

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $20

Rated: 88

Drink: Now – 2019

Importer: Negociants Australia

Vinea Marson Sangiovese

While Sangiovese from Italy is one of the first to turn too, Heathcote seems to be producing wines of very high quality as well. Normally the style is a little bit fruitier than the wines from Italy but Vinea Marson seems to be able to pay homage to the traditional style more than other from Australia. The vineyard is planted to a large variety of sangiovese clones and picked at different times which might be the reason why it tastes so savoury with specks of sweetness. To start with the slightly herbal notes stand out but they soon are transformed into roasted English herbs, ripe licorice, dark cherries and spice. The elegant nature of the wine is evident which makes it so easy to smash. Normally I let the wine sit for 5 days but this didn't last 1. Whoops!

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $45

Rated: 92

Drink: Now - 2019

Wild Duck Creek Estate Fortified Duck 2010

Wild Duck Creek produces some profound wines in terms of flavour and intensity but this wine is better than that as it offers savouriness and stunning length of flavour.

Wild Duck Creek Estate Fortified Duck 2010

I can imagine myself just opening this around a camp fire in the middle of winter with my mates perched around with big goblets in their hands as it just reminds me of holidays when I was a lot younger. We used to stay at a nearby lake east of Düsseldorf where we would unload our boot which was filled with delicious meats, cheeses and breads. We would light a fire and cook up a storm and then sit back and talk dribble to each other. I cherish those moments and this is the way this wine makes me feel. It is comforting as the plush flavours of plum, spice and rum and raison ice cream make me feel warm and loved. While the wine has sweetness is also possesses a huge amount of savoury goodness which makes it easy to come back for a second sip.

Alcohol: 18.5%

Price: $55

Rated: 94

Drink: In ten years

M Chapoutier Tournon Lady's Lane Vineyard Shiraz 2009

when I looked at the wines in front of me that I needed to taste through, this wine jumped out at me as it is impressively packaged. Wax seal, heavy bottle and a elegant label so how could I resist.

M Chapoutier Tournon Lady's Lane Vineyard Shiraz 2009

The initial aromas that swaggered out of the glass were sweet from the oak treatment but there was some really ripe plum and dark chocolate notes coming through. What happened on the palate didn't really match up as the wine felt lighter on the palate but the flavours of slightly over ripe plums, green pepper corns and dried currants didn't jump out and grab me. There needed to be a bit extra vibrancy or acidity to hold everything together. The wine has reached its peak and should be drunk now to get ful enjoyment out of it.

Alcohol: 15.5%

Price: $50

Rated: 85

Drink: Now or over the next two years

De Bortoli Windy Peak Shiraz 2012

Windy Peak are starting to go down the path of sourcing quality fruit from regions that have an infinity for particular varieties.

De Bortoli Windy Peak Shiraz 2012

In the beginning there was sweet plum and blueberry ice cream but it was the time for mint and spice to come through. It was a simple time but it was written in stone that it would be easy to sip from the cup of life and enjoy yourself. As the wine was good, it made people feel good but there was a hint of astringency through the heart of this lovely quaffer.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $14
Rated: 85
Drink: 2015 - 2018

Vinea Marson Nebbiolo 2008

Australia is just learning where they need to plant Nebbiolo to get the best out of the variety. Some of the best soils in Italy, for Nebbiolo, include calcareous-clay which is a mix of lime, metal oxides, organic matter and clay.

Vinea Marson Nebbiolo 2008

This is a beautiful rendition of Nebbiolo in an Australian/European sort of way with flavours of fragrant roses, earth and an Italian small goods store mixed with twizzler sticks. The flavours are really nice and if I compare them to their Italian counterparts I would have to say they are a little fruitier and less dirty. It all feels nice and restrained before the liquid hits my mouth and then the tannins go into overdrive. These tannins aren’t aggressive or overwhelming but they do stand up to get noticed. If you think about something that drains the saliva from your mouth leaving you looking like a corpse in a dodgy b grade movie then you are onto something.

All in all this is a smart little Nebbiolo that is well priced against other Australian Nebs and against their Italian brothers. In fact I would recommend putting this in a blind line up and trying to pick it out. 

Alcohol: 14.5%

Price: $50

Rated: 92

Drink: Give it 8 years before you open it



Vinea Marson Sangiovese 2010 + Lemon Pasta

Mario Marson is the owner and winemaker at Vinea Marson and he decided to lay down his roots in the heart of Heathcote in Victoria. Mario has done vintages in Italy at Isole e Olena where he learn that planting a variety of different clones of the same variety  allows for the production of quality wines year after year. On arrival back in Australia Mario became the winemaker at Mount Mary before finding his home in Heathcote. This winery is one to get on board with before everyone gets a hold of them.

My wife cooked this dish more us to go with the wine and it worked a treat. She has published the recipe on her site so I've linked to it below

Lemon Pasta

1 bag pasta of any type
rind from 1 lemon
juice from 2 lemons
splash of olive oil
fresh basil
pinch of salt
parmesan for serving

Heat water in pot. Once water is boiling add pasta and salt. While the pasta is cooking beat the rind, juice and olive oil together. Once the pasta is cooked drain and place back in pot. Mix in sauce, basil and parmesan. Serve immediately.

Vinea Marson Sangiovese 2010

This wine is difficult not to like as it is only medium bodies with red fruits galore. The level of restraint is beguiling as the wine never seems to get a head of itself yet the flavours of cherries, raspberries, provincial herbs and candied mints carry the wine along nicely. He fruit takes centre stage as the oak is already fully integrated. On the back palate the savoury and forceful tannin finish everything off with a slap of acidity thrown in there as well.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $38
Rated: 91
Drink: Now - 2020

Whistling Eagle Sangiovese 2010 + Vegetable Torte

The region of Heathcote is fast becoming my go to region for quality Sangiovese as the areas seems to have enough warmth to ripen the variety without turning it into just another full bodied red. The Whistling Eagle vines are grown in the Greenstone area which comprises ancient soil sub-striates. What was surprising with this wine was that it was only medium bodied with some lovely sour notes so I decided to pair this with a vegetable torte.

Vegetable Torte

The best thing with this dish is you can use any vegetable that is left over in your fridge but in this version I decided to go with these.

1 bunch fresh asparagus ( I have them growing in my garden), sliced
1 onion, chopped
1 zucchini, sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
125 g spinach
handful of fresh herbs from the garden
100 g parmesan, grated
250 g riccotta
250 g mascarpone
4 eggs, whisked
olive oil


Steam the asparagus and remove when done, 2 to 3 minutes. Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Add oil to a pan and heat. Add onions and cook until soft but not brown. Add zucchini and cook until brown and then add garlic and cook for another minute. Add the spinach and cook until it starts to wilt. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool.

Add the asparagus and herbs to the cool mixture and then add the parmesan, riccotta, mascarpone and eggs and fold together. Place in a circular springform tin  and cook in oven for 25 - 35 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool before serving. Serve with a fresh mixed green salad.

Whistling Eagle Sangiovese 2010

This wines starts out light and bright with flavours of cherries and Italian herbs with more savoury than sweet notes. It is the sort of wine that I could easily such down no worries but it is the underlying structure that pulls my attention towards the serious side of the wine world. The drying structure pulls the wine long through my mouth with a light hand yet the wine still has depth of flavour. The true complexity of the wine took a few days to shine through but when it did this wine was lovely to drink.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: $28
Rated: 88+
Drink: 2014 - 2020