Giaconda Chardonnay 2013

As  general rule the wines from 2013 possess ripe fruit characters with plenty of structure. What might occur, if the winemaker wanted, was over ripe flavours from too much hang time. That is not a problem with the Giaconda but the flavour profile is different to what I expected.

Giaconda Chardonnay 2013

Complete is not a word I use too often to describe a new release wine but the Giaconda Chardonnay just seems to have all its components already lined up. The oak, Sirugue, is already mostly in the background. The flavours that the oak has contributed does not lead the way, rather it adds to the beautiful white peach, grapefruit and nectarines. The leading flavour is the one I wasn't expecting and that is minerals and river pebbles. The wine is just loaded with this struck mineral and washed river pebbled and they are intense. It makes the wine feel lighter and more lively than previous releases and I think will make it age better.

I will go back to the oak for just a tick as I think the oak is brilliant used and is part of the make up of the wine. Giaconda are the importers of Sirugue barrels and use a mix of Alliers and Vosges with maybe a bit of Cuvee Chardonnay (not sure as they have only started bringing this barrel into Australia). The Vosges is a beautiful wood and adds spice and toasted hazelnut characters with a bit of structure as well. What they have done is use brilliant barrels but not swamped the powerful fruit and vineyard characters. They have only used 30% new barrels which means they are able to maintain a good quality barrel with oak having to rely on spending a lot of money of oak each year. Bravo oh.

Ok so back to the wine. This is a brilliant release and a little different from the last 5 releases but the power, intensity, length and acid line are all similar and warrant the bench mark status that Giaconda holds.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $130
Rated: 96
Drink: 2020 - 2030

Giaconda Chardonnay 2010

Every November Rick releases his newsletter and offer for his up coming wines so it is fitting that I should review this wine now. Since Giaconda's inception in 1985, the estate has produced stunning Chardonnay but in recent times the consistency has been spectacular. Put simply this wine is almost perfection bottled.

Giaconda Chardonnay 2010

To begin with I thought this wine didn't possess the normal power that I associate with this label but the wine kept on pulsating on my tongue. With each heart beat the wine gained depth of flavour and weight until it was almost too much to take. Actually this wine is beautifully balanced between power and elegance with flavours of dried grapefruit, peach juice, roasted nuts, struck quartz and lemon tart just adding to the experience. Even though I mention the flavours this wine is more about texture, structure and balance. It is a wine to sit back on your favourite chair with a big arse glass and just let the time pass you by.

Alcohol: 13%
Price: $120
Rated: 96+
Drink: 2020 +

Castagna La Chiave 2009 + Arancini

Recently I have tasted my way through a fair amount of Sangiovese based wines and I have come up with a top 6.  Two of these wines are made by Julian Castagna which is a huge accolade for such a small winery.  What is his secret? I think it has something to do with Julian’s ability to manage his vineyard which he does along biodynamic practises. Is it biodynamics? No because I have tasted many wines that are produced from organic and biodynamic vineyards but they don’t stack up to Julian’s wines.  Julian some how manages to cram more flavour, balance and structure out of his grapes without letting the alcohol levels creep up. This man is a magician to put it simply.

Arancini

These little orange risotto balls are similar to suppli but they originated from Sicily. You could serve these as an entrée or place them of a bed of rich tomato sauce as a main if you wish. I served this as an entrée which matched the lightness of Julian's wine brilliantly.  

Ingredients

Large pinch of quality Saffron

250 ml dry white wine

100 g butter

1 large onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

600 ml quality chicken stock, warm

1 handful of thyme

220 g arborio rice

60 g parmesan, grated

50 g mozzarella, cut into little cubes

breadcrumbs

vegetable oil for deep-frying

Leave saffron in the wine, while you prepare the onions and rice, for the flavours to seep out. Melt butter in a large deep pan and add onions and garlic. Cook until the onions go soft and then add in the rice and thyme.  Cook for 1 minute and add in the wine and saffron.  Stir frequently until the wine is absorbed and then add the chicken stock a cup at a time.  Always have enough moisture to cover the rice.  When the rice becomes creamy take the pan off the heat and add in the parmesan. Stir until the cheese is mixed through and then spread out the mixture on two trays and refrigerate for 3 hours. 

Heat the oil in a deep pan until it is very hot, 180 degrees. Roll the rice mixture into tight little golf size balls with a piece of cheese in the centre and then roll in breadcrumbs. Lower balls into the oil and leave until they become golden in colour. Pull them out and place on a paper towel before serving. 

Castagna La Chiave 2009

Light body? That is a roger so you will have to be careful what you serve this with. I had to leave this open for a few days so the sweet oak could move from taking centre stage to a more reserved back stage.  Once it did then the enjoyment factor raised a few levels. On day three cherry balm, cinnamon, polish wood and dry roasted herbs were the main players with dried cranberries being the support actress along with a bit of spice. The wine is fine almost like it is clothed in a luxurious silk suit but it doesn’t have the gorgeous factor like its Sangiovese/Shiraz brother. For such a tough year in Beechworth, this wine has so much going for it that I dear ask what the 2010 wine will be like.

Alcohol: 13%

Price: $75

Rated: 91+

Drink: 2017 - 2025

Castagna Un Segreto 2009 plus eggplant lasagna

Castagna walks to the beat of his own drum as he was one of the first in the Beechworth region to plant an Italian variety and was also one of the first to adopt a biodynamic approach to vineyard management. The vineyard is 500 m above sea level and there are herbs and wild grasses speckled throughout the vineyard which attract bees and other positive wild life. If there is something that is attacking the vines these positive wildlife, such as birds, come in to eat those little nasty things. You really have to take your hat off to the people that can think outside the box and adopt a life style that is both good for their own health and good for the health of the vine. Julian is one of those guys and he has a clear vision about what variety should be planted where! I think this wine is the future for blends in Australia as it combines food friendliness and drink-ability in one.

I made this meal to match with Julian's wine and it did so superbly. Watch out that you don't reduce the tomatoes too much as this increases the level of richness in the dish.

Eggplant Lasagne

2 x boxes of fresh Lasagne sheets.
200 g pecorino
5 large eggplants, sliced
flour
oil
3 large tins of chopped tomatoes
1 onion, chopped
1 clove of garlic, crushed

Place tomatoes, onion and garlic in large pot and simmer until reduced. Heat pan and add oil. Roll eggplant in flour to cover and then fry in oil until tender. removed from heat and set aside. Heat oven to 180 degrees. In a large baking dish cover the bottom with tomato sauce and then layer lasagne sheet, eggplant, tomato and pecorino until you have reached just inside the top of the dish. Add another layer of lasagne sheet and then over with tomato sauce and pecorino. Cover with foil and place in oven for 20 min and then remove foil and cook for a further 15 min.

Castagna Un Segreto 2009

Medium bodied wine goes perfectly with medium bodied food so this match works perfectly. The Un Segreto is a 60% Sangiovese and 40% Shiraz blend that is lip smackingly dry and savoury with its perfume aromas and wild blueberries bouncing around before light red-fruits and spice take a strangle hold. At this stage the wine is holding is cards close to its chest but it still shows great flavours and mouth watering acidity. The best thing about this wine is the tannins! They are some of the best tannins in the country as they are light yet perfectly balanced with the favours and they spread out on my tongue like a fan that has opened out for the first time. Furthermore the wine is totally balanced with a little extra funky town action that is happening on the back palate.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $75
Rated: 92 +
Drink: 2015 - 2024

Brokenwood Regional Blend Shiraz 2009

Brokenwood make a variety of wines from fruit from all over the country. When I first opened the box and noticed the label I was immediately felt a glow of joy as I thought I was in for some Hunter Valley magic but alas on closer inspection this wine comes from McLaren Vale and from a very warm vintage.    This wine is 70% McLaren Vale with a touch, 30%, of Beechworth thrown in.

Brokenwood Regional Blend Shiraz 2009

When I normally taste I have at least five bottles open at one time so I can track their development over three to seven days but with this wine I just kept on wanting to go back to this over all the other wines.  This wine does have richness, through the flavours of tar and chocolate, woven through it but it never gets a head of itself.  There are even elements of glazed cherries and spice mixed with dark plums that freshen the palate right up. In fact I wrote down elegant in a lighter full bodied style across the top of my notes.  In the end I thought a lot of this wine and even though there was a little alcohol warmth on the back palate, for the vintage this is spectacular. I guess that one of the things that takes it up the quality spectrum was the fact that I drank more of this wine that the other samples combined as it was so appealing. 

Alcohol: 14%

Price: $32

Rated: 89

Drink: Now or over the next 7 years

Brokenwood Vintage Diary 2012

'If this report was written last week then the talk would have been about sunshine and perfect weather. However a slow moving High sitting west off Tasmania has brought on humid drizzly rain for the Australia Day week. La Nina is still at work. The winter of 2010 saw more consistent rain than previous years with each month from April 2010 getting above 60mm and June just on 120mm. Rain in the last 3 months was 310mm so quite a wet spring and start to the growing season. Unlike 2010 it was spread out and we were able to keep up the spray program. Warm, dry weather followed through Xmas and into the New Year but thankfully not the 40-45C days of 2011. All the Brokenwood vineyards are in excellent condition with the Graveyard Vineyard having at least two sweeps of fruit thinning. The Cricket Pitch Semillon has already been picked. Cowra has had a wet spring, ending with the same rainfall as the Hunter Valley and this has continued into January. Orange is up in rainfall and in both regions the  vineyards are looking first class. In contrast the Indigo Vineyard at Beechworth for the last 3 months recorded 185mm, thankfully way down on the same period in 2010 when the vineyard had 470mm. Fruit thinning has been necessary on some blocks and the Indigo Vineyard guys have the place in perfect nick.' Iain Riggs

Coriole V Mclaren Vale

So at the end of work today I decided to take home the last bits of the bottles to compare against the samples that I have been sent.  The Coriole wines were all tasted tonight but the others were tasted over a prolonged period.  Firstly I work for Coriole but I only applied for the job because I loved the wines that they produce, particularly the Sangrantino and Fiano. These tasting notes will be head to head so no scores. Wait until my article is released and I will post the full notes.

Coriole Vita Sangiovese 2007 v Alpha Box and Dice Blood of Jupiter Sangiovese/Cabernet 2007

While they both have a lovely sourness to them with an underlying earthiness the Vita takes it up a notch with its breadth and depth.  Are they Italian? Well they are brilliantly complex with loads of savoury friendliness.  These are my top eight for the country.

1. Coriole Vita 2007 $50
2. Sutton Grange Giove 2008 $50
3.  Alpha Box & Dice Blood of Jupiter 2007 $45
4. Pizzani Coronamento 2004 $120
5. Pizzani Sangiovese 2008 $25
6. Coriole Sangiovese 2010 $25
7. Castagna La Chiave 2008 $70
8. Lucy Margaux Sangiovese 2009 $60

One zero Coriole

Coriole Estate Shiraz 2009 v Wirra Wirrra Woodhenge 2010

Even though the Coriole drinks rather nice the Woodhenge has spectacular length and balance.  Is in unfair to judge against two different vintages? Well no as they release their wines at different stages.

One all.

Coriole Barbera 2010 V Alpha Box & Dice Enigma 2010

This is the hardest to judge as they both have a beautiful balance in a medium bodied style. What wins it over for me is the spread across the palate. You will have to give them a bit in the bottle

Coriole two McLaren Vale one

Coriole Tempranillo / Samual's Gorge Tempraniollo 2010

Coriole didn't even have one so they forfeited. Does it matter that Coriole focuses on the Italian varieties? Not at this stage in the game.

Two pieces all.

Coriole Sagrantino 2009 (this was a preview as it will be released in 2012)/ Oliver's Taranga Sagrantino 2009

These are both beautiful wines but the Oliver's doesn't have the tannin structure to hold itself against the wine from Coriole. If you want to drink it now or in the next 10 years you have to love tannin.

Coriole three and the Vales two.

Giaconda Estate Chardonnay 2008

When people talk about quality Australian Chardonnay they have to be talking about either Giaconda or Leeuwin Estate.  Now I am not a fan of some of the Leeuwin vintages as I think they see a huge amount of oak but Giaconda is a totally different story. Rick doesn't release his Estate Chardonnay every year but does so if he thinks the quality is there. Now the town of Beechworth  is situated in the hills just south of the New South Wales border which makes it brilliant for a variety of different grape varieties.

 

I think I would like to visit the vineyards so see how Rick grows such an amazing bunch of grapes. 

Giaconda Estate Chardonnay 2008

So complex with all components perfectly integrated into the main theme of the wine. On the palate the wine feels light whilst the intensity of the fruit in scary but what I most love about the wine is after the extremely long length there is a bright aciditywhich leaves your mouth watering! Love it! Not only is this the best white wine I have tried from Australia this year but it almost goes down as the best wine I've tried from Australia. If you love Chardonnay the get some of this.  

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: $120

Rated: 95+

Drink: Now - 2024

Sorrenberg Chardonnay 2009

Beechworth Chardonnay takes up a large proportion of my white wine cellar.  Generally the region produces their Chardonnay in the white Burgundy style which when it is done well rocks my world. 

Sorrenberg Chardonnay 2009

Build them and they shall come! This is built big but has well integrated oak treatment and freshness.  It's like sitting in front of a summer platter of pineapple, nectarines and baked figs topped with cream.  At the moment it is cold in the Adelaide Hills so this is the sort of wine I feel like.  Even though it's big, the wine is not thick or blowsy on my palate, it's more lively like a fairy out of the Peter Pan movie.

Alcohol: 13.4%
Price: $50
Rated: 90
Drink:2012 - 2018

Sorrenberg Gamay 2010

There is a movement in many wine making circles to produce natural wines.  As it turns out many players have been doing it that way but not telling anyone.  Here is a wine fermented on natural yeast and left to rest in older oak for 11 months.  Two thumbs up in my opinion. 


Sorrenberg Gamay 2010

I've been drinking, whoops I mean sampling, a few Beaujolias recently so i was pleased to see what we can do. Let's show those Frenchies that they don't know how to make wine... well we know they can and this Beechworth number isn't quite there yet. It lacks depth and length compared to the French counterparts.  You still get cherries and spice with bright acidity mixed with a little gym jock action.  You know the type that stays at the gym in the hot metal locker for a year before they come home for a wash.

Alcohol: 14%
Price: $39
Rated: 84
Drink: now -2015