One of the most unique Australian wine styles - Semillon

One of the most unique wine styles in Australia would have to be early picked Semillon that receives no oak adulteration.  This style was pioneered in the Hunter Valley by Lindeman’s, McWilliam’s and Tyrrell’s in the early settler days.  Similar to Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling the absence of oak allows for the pure representation of the variety.  Many consider the varieties and wine styles like Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon to be the polar opposite to the over-oaked and ultra ripe old school Chardonnays that went out of vogue some ten years ago.  Now it is interesting to see the increased attention that Semillon has garnered in recent times as people continue their journey along the wine styles continuum.

As an Australian, I am extremely proud of our countries heritage, especially when the visionaries of the past have forged new wine styles that are so unique in their flavour profile and aging ability. As it turns out, dry Semillon pairs perfectly with a variety of lighter style foods. Generally, when people come around to my place for dinner, I like to serve a wine that will stimulate conversation thus breaking the ice and get the juices in the mouth flowing in anticipation for food.  Young Semillon serves that purpose brilliantly.  As recent times have seen the advent of celebrity cooking shows, cookbooks and cooking programs run by some of the top chefs it is no wonder that Australia has seen a large increase in top quality meals being prepared at home.  Coupled with this fact, people have found the food styles of Asia to be fascinating.  This may have come about as a result of more people experiencing the culture due to cheap flights or the elite chefs focusing on flavours and refreshing styles of food that match our hot climate.  Whatever the reason, the amount of Asian food being cooked and consumed at home has increased the most out of all cooking styles.  The focus of these home chefs has moved towards showcasing quality ingredients in a light and refreshing manner. 

Due to this change in cuisine people now require a wine to match and Semillon fits the bill spectacularly. Since the flavours and structure of Semillon complement and enhance the Asian style flavours let us look at a small selection of quality wines that people could find around the country. I would suggest that if you haven’t tried them before then head out and grab a selection so you can experience the different styles, young and old, from a truly unique Australian variety.

Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2011

Andrew Thomas has worked all over the Hunter Valley with many of the iconic producers but it is the wines that he makes under his own label that are the most enchanting.  Andrew focuses on individual vineyard wines that he takes from some of the best sub-regions within the Hunter Valley. 

Every moment this wine is open it builds weight and breadth.  Initially the flavours of lemongrass and lime tart take centre stage which both dazzle and delight before spring flowers waft over me on a warm breeze adding richness to the mid-palate. I am captivated by the fact that each time I come back to this wine a new flavour has emerged which suggests that if you can keep your hands off it time will reward you. Wow this sip tastes of tinned passionfruit while the next reminds me of Chinese star jasmine. What can I say but to finish with noticing that the length of this wine is gorgeously long and the flavours excited me.

Alcohol: 11.5%

Price: $28

Rated: 93

Drink: Now or later

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2006

Constantly Tyrrell’s make the bench marker Semillon and this is no different.  To begin this wine opened with lanolin and French toast before everything seemed to transform to a more youthful flavour profile. Does that mean this wine had a face lift? No but it does mean that it has been eating healthily and working out as the natural goodness of lime wedges, mandarin peel and lemon grass started to take over. To sum up this wine the words sculptured and pungent come to mind but that is nothing compared to the length of this wine. Simply amazing and doesn’t need anything more said.

Alcohol: 10.7%

Price: $70

Rated: 95

Drink: On its 15^th birthday

Peter Lehmann Margaret Semillon 2006

The Hunter has had a stranglehold on top quality Semillon until this wine came along. Not unlike the Vat 1 the flavours are more akin to a two year old wine with notes of high class lime cordial which provides the backbone for all the other flavours to hand off. Imagine one of those science skeletons that you see in the movies and now replace the backbone with lime. The rib cage would be fresh cut grass, with a little crystal as the legs and the arms being spice. Every flavour works brilliantly but they all depend on the spine of cordial to hold itself together. Luckily the spine of this wine is in pristine condition which will allow this to age gracefully for another decade.  While it will age well, there is a lot to be gained with opening one now. I guess at 25 bucks a bottle many people will be able to afford to stash a few away.  I’ve gone out and bought a dozen, six to drink now and six to drink in six years. My thoughts are that a wine of this quality at this price point is rare as hen’s teeth.

Alcohol:

Price: $25

Rated: 93

Drink: Whenever you want

Henschke Louis Semillon 2009

Steven and Prue have been crafting Semillon for some time now from their 50 year old block in the heart of the Eden Valley.  From a textural point of view this wine has already started to evolve which is consistent with the flavour development.  Initially the wine was a bit mused but eventually specks of grass and lanolin emerged with a touch of caramelised pears poking their head out. On the palate these flavours transfer well with a slice of lemon wedging into my consciousness.  When you compare this wine with the other Semillons there is a distinctive difference which I would happily recommend to buy as a result.

Alcohol: 12%

Price: $22.50

Rated: 85

Drink: Now or over the next 5 years.